<VV> Pre-testing 140 before running

[Charlie]

I’ve probably “revved” the crank manually 10 or 20 times around at different times, with little to moderate effort, but it feels “dry” as I do it.

 

The feeling that “dry” surfaces are moving against each other causes me the concern that I want to allay  before installing it.

 

 

Charlie

 

From: MarK Durham [mailto:62vair at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:08 PM
To: Charlie
Cc: Frank DuVal; Virtual Vairs
Subject: Re: <VV> Pre-testing 140 before running

 

Charlie, if the engine was rebuilt with new rings, it will take a bit more to pull it through. I always error to the conservative side, so barring Smitty's comment, I would pull the distributer and simply turn the oil pump with a long flat blade screwdriver until you get pressure, . Do this five or six times, letting the engine set a minute or two in between, then, you will know you have coated the bearings. I did this with my fresh engine build, and after 6 times with a screwdriver I had oil dripping out at the rocker arms, too. 

 

 




Mark Durham

Hauser, Idaho

62 Monza coupe Red/Red 4 speed

 

On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 8:37 AM, Charlie via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:

Thanks ~

Since it was sitting a while, I added Mystery Oil + a bit of 10w30 to each
plug hole to let it seep in before turning it.

Without measuring the torque needed, it turns fairly easily with little
effort, but doesn't feel "smooth" (it is reputed to have been rebuilt before
sitting for about a year in SoCal single-digit humidity, so that's better
than north east levels!

The real test is when I put the starter on it, but I want to make sure there
are no friction drag due to even minimal internal surface rust.

So, I'll use the starter sparingly until I feel OK with it.

Should I spin the oil pump before I run the starter, just to get the juices
flowing?

Charlie


-----Original Message-----
From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
corvairduval--- via VirtualVairs
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 7:33 AM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out of
car?

5 to 10 foot pounds? Without plugs there is no compression to overcome, just
valve spring tension, so it should turn easily.

Sometimes rust does form in the cylinders (always here in the east!). So the
first attempt may take some extra effort. Spray your favorite rust
penetrant/lube into all three spark plug holes before you try to turn it.
Dragging unlubricated rings along the cylinders is not the best course of
action.

Frank DuVal

Original email:
-----------------
From: Charlie chaz at properproper.com
Date: Fri, 30 May 2014 06:55:51 -0700
To: shortle556 at earthlink.net, hmlinc at sbcglobal.net, corvairduval at cox.net,
virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Torque needed to turn 140 without plugs to test it out of car?


I'm want to test the 140 out of car before installing it, to make sure it'll
work first.

What kind of torque is needed to turn a 140 without plugs, just to turn it,
to see if it's "free-turning" enough to put it together, and into the car?

Charlie

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