<VV> VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 129, Issue 25
Eric S. Eberhard
eric at vicsmba.com
Wed Oct 14 19:08:41 EDT 2015
Wood wrench idea looks great and I might try one. However, with a
hammer, the shot filled plastic hammers are still my choice. I put
double folded cardboard and have never hurt a spinner before. Copper
and lead won't give like shot covered in plastic will. I think they are
called "dead blow" hammers and weight ranges from 1/5 lbs to 20
lbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here the one I think I use, about 3 lbs.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Hammer-Powerdrive-Dead-Blow-Hammer/_/R-AIT69507_0006544073
Although mine is yellow and this is much better looking ...
Eric
On 10/14/2015 9:00 AM, virtualvairs-request at corvair.org wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Wire wheels -- hammers and so forth (Bryan Blackwell)
> 2. Re: Centering the Pressure Plate (tkalp at cox.net)
> 3. LM Rear Suspension and Diff Questions (edward szuch)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 08:47:28 -0400
> From: Bryan Blackwell<bryan at skiblack.com>
> To: "Eric S. Eberhard"<eric at vicsmba.com>
> Cc: VirtualVairs<virtualvairs at corvair.org>, judynrandy at comcast.net
> Subject: Re:<VV> Wire wheels -- hammers and so forth
> Message-ID:<C23F7912-2046-4FE2-9B19-E8A7E0AD4C74 at skiblack.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi Eric,
>
> This may be old news, or not. Wire wheels were quite common on British sports cars of the 50s and 60s, as you might expect there is a good supply of tools to deal with them. I don't know if the specific tools would work out of the box on our K-H wheels, but this might give some food for thought. The rawhide/copper mallet was a standard part of the tool kit on many of those cars, but I like the idea of the wood "wrench" even better.
>
> http://xks.com/c-201741-xk-120-xk-140-xk-150-replacement-parts-wheels-tires-wire-wheel-tools-accessories.html
>
> --Bryan
>
>
>> On Oct 13, 2015, at 3:56 PM, Eric S. Eberhard via VirtualVairs<virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>>
>> By general rule on all things old cars -- especially Corvairs -- don't over tighten. And the raw lead hammer will deform and then damage the chrome. I hide the NAPA hammer, and leave the pristine lead one out for show.
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 9:36:44 -0400
> From:<tkalp at cox.net>
> To: Daniel Monasterio Gonz?lez<dmonasterio at hotmail.com>
> Cc: Daniel Monasterio Gonz?lez via VirtualVairs
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Subject: Re:<VV> Centering the Pressure Plate
> Message-ID:<20151014093644.0FITD.220086.imail at eastrmwml205>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Are the shouldered bolts available anywhere? The bolts Clark's supplies are threaded all the way to the head.
>
> T. Kalp
> Wichita, KS
>
> ---- "Daniel Monasterio Gonz?lez via VirtualVairs"<virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
>> It is centered by the unthreaded area of the six 5/16" bolts that holds
>> the pressure plate to the flywheel.
>>
>> Daniel Monasterio
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 11:23:07 -0400
> From: edward szuch<egszuch at gmail.com>
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject:<VV> LM Rear Suspension and Diff Questions
> Message-ID:
> <CAA20Y4O61-Xb-KWWgTb556+PKRyiQ-pQg5PVUUp=cJp6O+LXcA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> I'm finally getting some time to address some needed service and possible
> adjustments to my '66 Corsa. It's a 140 with a 4 spd and posi-traction.
> It has about 67,000 miles on it.
> I removed the power train to re-seal the engine but I also wanted to
> re-pack the rear wheel bearings and will be replacing the suspension
> bushings.
> My questions are:
> 1) I want to re-pack the rear wheel bearings but I'm concerned about
> getting the bearing end play/preload reset correctly after service. It
> looks like there is a spacer and shim(s) used to set this end play. Do the
> factory set-ups hold the correct end play after a bearing service or do I
> have to buy a number of shims to re-adjust the end play? I'm guessing
> normal wear may increase the end play and I would have to put in a thinner
> shim.
>
> 2) I'd also like to tighten up some of the end play in the half shaft yokes
> (rear suspension looseness). The left side has .037" and the right side
> has .024". This seems high but according to Mr R. A. Kirkman's article in
> the Tech Guide Supplement, is probably normal for a used vehicle. Looking
> at the exploded view in the shop manual, I see that a shim behind the yoke
> retaining nut might correct this but I'm not sure if it's even possible. I
> know we all live with this end play but are there any tricks learned over
> the years that may improve the condition?
>
> Thanks very much!
>
> Gary Szuch
>
>
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> ------------------------------
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> End of VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 129, Issue 25
> *********************************************
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>
--
Eric S. Eberhard
VICS
2933 W Middle Verde Road
Camp Verde, AZ 86322
928-567-3727 work 928-301-7537 cell
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