<VV> What am I looking at?

FrankDuVal corvairduval at cox.net
Wed Aug 2 22:36:01 EDT 2017

A typical run hard and put up wet Corvair engine!

Here in the rusty east (and you are here) it is not unusual for most of 
the upper head studs to unscrew before the nuts are loose.  I've put 
many an upper stud in a vise to remove the nuts. And then put the stud 
back in. As long as they hold torque, they will be fine. if not, 
Helicoil (or other brand). Do be aware if the upper studs screw in to 
the point of sticking into the inside of the crankcase, these long 
stroke (164 cu in) cranks will beat them with the rod bolts. not good!

Not unusual for everything to be covered in oil when the original 
Neoprene O-rings bit the dust.

All original heads are about 50 years old. NONE should be trusted for 
use without installing new deep seats.

Measure the cylinders to see what shape (literal shape, egg shaped 
inside or out) they are in. They are very durable from heat, bad oil 
wears them out.

Heads stick all the time. Studs are not always straight. Typical worn 

Nothing you listed would make me run away from what I normally do. Check 
all parts for wear. Sure it can be scrap, but without analyzing the 
parts, how would you know? More important is to acurately measure the 
bore of the cylinders, diameter of the crank and guess at the surface of 
the cam.

Frank DuVal

On 8/2/2017 6:52 PM, JUDY HOOK via VirtualVairs wrote:
> I just finished taking apart a 110 engine that was in a '65 monza convertible barn find.  Unfortunately, it was previously run hot.  VERY HOT.  How do I know?  My first red flag was the broken fan belt laying in the engine bay when I opened the hood for the first time.  The next red flag was that head 2-4-6 spark plug wires where missing their sealing grommets.  I then managed to get all the shrouds off without mishap.  However, I did notice that everything on the outside and the entire pg transaxle was covered in about a half inch of that crumbly, crusty, slimey, gooy, sticky oil residue combined with dust and dirt from a dirt road.  The next red flag was that when attempting to remove the rocker arm adjusting nuts from head 1-3-5 rocker arms,  three of the rocker arm STUDS unscrewed first!!!   Also, this heads' plug wires HAD their sealing grommets in place.  The next red flag was that two head studs unscrewed before the head nuts came off.  Now for the kicker.  After I removed the
>    push rod tubes I went to remove the cylinder baffle only to NOT FIND ONE!!!!!  When it came time to remove the head from the studs I almost couldn't get it to come off.  Something was really out of whack.
> Removing head 2-4-6 was pretty uneventful even though its' plug wires were missing their sealing grommets.  It HAD its' cylinder baffle in place.  It came off like a head is supposed to be removed.  This head had a "normal" amount of carbon on the head and piston tops, the 1-3-5 head had hardly any.
> The last red flag is that the entire innards of the said engine are covered in a mountain of sludge.
>              Now, for my question:  What am I looking at?  I know the heads are probably scrap aluminum just waiting for the valve seats to fall out.  But what about everything else?  Could the jugs and pistons have distorted or warped from all the excess heat?  Could the jugs be suitable for re-use since there is hardly ANY wear (no ridges) in any of them?  Would the crank and cam be worth reusing?  I guess the only way to tell for sure if they are ok is to measure them for excessive wear.
>       At any rate, since this is absolutely the most abused Corvair engine I've ever dealt with, thoughts and opinions please.  Thanks.
>    Randy (Cap'n) Hook
>         Hopewell, PA
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