<VV> 64 run circuit problem
hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Thu Jun 14 16:39:44 EDT 2018
My instinct would be to disconnect the feed to the coil & run a jumper
lead from the battery to the coil, taking the entire wiring harness out
of the equation. You say you have tried a jumper lead and experienced a
high current draw, but did you disconnect the coil from the main wiring
harness? If everything else is disconnected and you still have a high
current draw, it must be the coil that is drawing the current so I would
swap coil & condenser. Does it have a resistor on the coil? Try a 12v
coil with no resistor? Also syphon feed gasoline from a can on the
trunk lid into the carb (s), although from what you say you do have a
fuel supply. What happens when it dies? Does it cough & splutter for a
while? If so, how long?
On 2018-06-14 13:05, Bryan Blackwell via VirtualVairs wrote:
> Hi Smitty,
> It sounds like a big current draw, so I'd consider something that
> could cause almost a dead short. Given that it gets the jumper hot,
> that at least seems to narrow it down to something downstream of the
> coil positive. Bad condenser? How about the wire that goes to the
> points rubbed partially through? You could also do a test with the
> 12+ disconnected and just a jumper wire supplying the coil, that
> eliminate all the other parts on the positive side.
>> On Jun 14, 2018, at 1:18 PM, Smitty via VirtualVairs
>> <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>> Smitty Says: History; Problem has existed for 4 years with whole
>> club involved and no resolution. 64 Monza Convertible. Starts and
>> runs normally for 20-30 minutes, then dies. Makes no difference if
>> car is on highway or in garage. In 20-30 minutes it is going to die
>> Although many have tried diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper from
>> battery to Pos side of coil will keep it running with extreme amperage
>> draw noted in jumper. Original and two other coils have been used.
>> Points have been checked multiple times and replaced once. Rear
>> electric harness has been changed with new one, and two wire connector
>> to start solenoid has been changed with new set. Start solenoid has
>> been replaced with a new one. Engine to dash harness has been
>> electrically verified with ohm meter. Ignition switch has been
>> replaced with new and known good unit twice. Gas tank and sock have
>> been replaced. Cable has been spun through all fuel lines. inline
>> filter and carb stones are new. Not a fuel
>> problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.
>> Filler cap has been left off.
>> Two clues. With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom
>> voltage dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on.
>> Definitely get hot enough to burn you. Also the large current draw in
>> the jumper when applied.
>> Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as
>> to verify that your question has not already been answered by our
>> diagnosis. And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.
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