<VV> 64 run circuit problem

[Hugo Miller]

My instinct would be to disconnect the feed to the coil & run a jumper 
lead from the battery to the coil, taking the entire wiring harness out 
of the equation. You say you have tried a jumper lead and experienced a 
high current draw, but did you disconnect the coil from the main wiring 
harness? If everything else is disconnected and you still have a high 
current draw, it must be the coil that is drawing the current so I would 
swap coil & condenser.  Does it have a resistor on the coil? Try a 12v 
coil with no resistor?  Also syphon feed gasoline from a can on the 
trunk lid into the carb (s), although from what you say you do have a 
fuel supply. What happens when it dies? Does it cough & splutter for a 
while? If so, how long?


On 2018-06-14 13:05, Bryan Blackwell via VirtualVairs wrote:
> Hi Smitty,
>
> It sounds like a big current draw, so I'd consider something that
> could cause almost a dead short.  Given that it gets the jumper hot,
> that at least seems to narrow it down to something downstream of the
> coil positive.  Bad condenser?  How about the wire that goes to the
> points rubbed partially through?  You could also do a test with the
> 12+ disconnected and just a jumper wire supplying the coil, that 
> would
> eliminate all the other parts on the positive side.
>
> --Bryan
>
>> On Jun 14, 2018, at 1:18 PM, Smitty via VirtualVairs 
>> <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>>
>> Smitty Says:  History;  Problem has existed for 4 years with whole 
>> club involved and no resolution.  64 Monza Convertible. Starts and 
>> runs normally for 20-30 minutes, then dies.  Makes no difference if 
>> car is on highway or in garage.  In 20-30 minutes it is going to die  
>> Although many have tried diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper from 
>> battery to Pos side of coil will keep it running with extreme amperage 
>> draw noted in jumper.  Original and two other coils have been used.  
>> Points have been checked multiple times and replaced once.  Rear 
>> electric harness has been changed with new one, and two wire connector 
>> to start solenoid has been changed with new set.  Start solenoid has 
>> been replaced with a new one.  Engine to dash harness has been 
>> electrically verified with ohm meter.  Ignition switch has been 
>> replaced with new and known good unit twice.  Gas tank and sock have 
>> been replaced.  Cable has been spun through all fuel lines.  inline 
>> filter and carb stones are new.  Not a fuel
>> problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.  
>> Filler cap has been left off.
>> Two clues.  With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom 
>> voltage dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on. 
>> Definitely get hot enough to burn you.  Also the large current draw in 
>> the jumper when applied.
>> Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as 
>> to verify that your question has not already been answered by our 
>> diagnosis.  And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.   
>>         Thanks
>
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