<VV> 64 run circuit problem
Hugo Miller
hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Sat Jun 16 01:47:26 EDT 2018
Or eliminate ALL the original wiring & just run one wire from battery
to coil (via resistor if it has one). May need a temporary jumper cable
giving direct 12 volt supply to start the engine if it won't start
without.
On 2018-06-15 17:19, Joel McGregor via VirtualVairs wrote:
> I know what is wrong. It's either the starter solenoid or the wire
> between it and the positive side of the coil. One or the other is
> grounding somewhere. Possibly the heater hose on the solenoid?
> A good test would be to remove said wire at the coil.
>
> Joel McGregor
>
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Tom Berg via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Date: 6/15/18 8:54 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org, Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>,
> jdmcpherson45 at gmail.com, Smitty <vairologist at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> 64 run circuit problem
>
> Just a wild stab: Check the connector between engine compartment and
> body harness, on the left side of the firewall. It might be heating
> up
> and shorting out the engine harness. That might also explain that
> 20-30-minute factor.
> --Tom in Ohio On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 2:08:01 PM EDT, Smitty
> via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
> Smitty Says: History; Problem has existed for 4 years with whole
> club involved and no resolution. 64 Monza Convertible. Starts and
> runs normally for 20-30 minutes, then dies. Makes no difference if
> car is on highway or in garage. In 20-30 minutes it is going to die
> Although many have tried diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper
> from
> battery to Pos side of coil will keep it running with extreme
> amperage
> draw noted in jumper. Original and two other coils have been used.
> Points have been checked multiple times and replaced once. Rear
> electric harness has been changed with new one, and two wire
> connector
> to start solenoid has been changed with new set. Start solenoid has
> been replaced with a new one. Engine to dash harness has been
> electrically verified with ohm meter. Ignition switch has been
> replaced with new and known good unit twice. Gas tank and sock have
> been replaced. Cable has been spun through all fuel lines. inline
> filter and carb stones are new. Not a fuel
> problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.
> Filler cap has been left off.
> Two clues. With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom
> voltage dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on.
> Definitely get hot enough to burn you. Also the large current draw
> in
> the jumper when applied.
> Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as
> to verify that your question has not already been answered by our
> diagnosis. And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.
> Thanks
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