<VV> 64 run circuit problem

Hugo Miller hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Sat Jun 16 01:47:26 EDT 2018


Or eliminate ALL the original wiring & just run one wire from battery 
to coil (via resistor if it has one). May need a temporary jumper cable 
giving direct 12 volt supply to start the engine if it won't start 
without.

On 2018-06-15 17:19, Joel McGregor via VirtualVairs wrote:
> I know what is wrong.  It's either the starter solenoid or the wire
> between it and the positive side of the coil.  One or the other is
> grounding somewhere.  Possibly the heater hose on the solenoid?
> A good test would be to remove said wire at the coil.
>
> Joel McGregor
>
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Tom Berg via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Date: 6/15/18 8:54 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org, Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>,
> jdmcpherson45 at gmail.com, Smitty <vairologist at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> 64 run circuit problem
>
> Just a wild stab: Check the connector between engine compartment and
> body harness, on the left side of the firewall. It might be heating 
> up
> and shorting out the engine harness. That might also explain that
> 20-30-minute factor.
> --Tom in Ohio    On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 2:08:01 PM EDT, Smitty
> via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>
>  Smitty Says:  History;  Problem has existed for 4 years with whole
> club involved and no resolution.  64 Monza Convertible.  Starts and
> runs normally for 20-30 minutes, then dies.  Makes no difference if
> car is on highway or in garage.  In 20-30 minutes it is going to die
> Although many have tried diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper 
> from
> battery to Pos side of coil will keep it running with extreme 
> amperage
> draw noted in jumper.  Original and two other coils have been used.
> Points have been checked multiple times and replaced once.  Rear
> electric harness has been changed with new one, and two wire 
> connector
> to start solenoid  has been changed with new set.  Start solenoid has
> been replaced with a new one.  Engine to dash harness has been
> electrically verified with ohm meter.  Ignition switch has been
> replaced with new and known good unit twice.  Gas tank and sock have
> been replaced.  Cable has been spun through all fuel lines.  inline
> filter and carb stones are new.  Not a fuel
>  problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.
> Filler cap has been left off.
> Two clues.  With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom
> voltage dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on.
> Definitely get hot enough to burn you.  Also the large current draw 
> in
> the jumper when applied.
> Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as
> to verify that your question has not already been answered by our
> diagnosis.  And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.
>         Thanks
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