<VV> Freeing a stuck motor.
hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Wed Jun 20 14:28:50 EDT 2018
How on earth did it get that bad? Wrist pins also? Did it run right out
of oil or was it used as a boat anchor?
On 2018-06-20 10:44, roboman91324--- via VirtualVairs wrote:
> I have worked on more than a few motors over the years and some have
> been seized. The worst was a turbo motor for my '66 Corsa.
> First, to explain the comment about the square inches and piston
> surface area. If the piston's surface area is 8 square inches and
> air pressure is 150 PSI (pounds per square inch) the total force on
> the head of the piston will be 8 sq. in. x 150 PSI = 1200 pounds of
> force on the piston. Assuming all 6 pistons are seized (a good
> assumption) 1200 pounds will probably not do the job depending on the
> severity of the seizure. In addition, you will only have a chance at
> success if you choose a piston that is approximately in the middle of
> its travel in the cylinder. If the piston is at the top or bottom of
> travel, air pressure in the cylinder will have no effect. The
> connecting rod bearing journal must be at a right angle to the force
> applied to allow the piston to have the major torque on the
> and allow the system to move. Take off the oil pan and/or top cover
> to see which piston to use. Matt suggested removing the rockers to
> guarantee the valves will be seated. If a valve is even a tiny bit
> open, the air pressure will escape.
> Here is my ordeal.
> I bought the motor to replace an incorrect 140 in my Corsa. It came
> from the factory as a Turbo car. I didn't look at the motor before I
> bought it because it was in Chicago and I am in LA. The numbers on
> the crankcase indicated it was proper for engine type and date of
> manufacture for my car. I trusted the seller because we got together
> on the deal here on VV. I shouldn't have trusted him as it turns
> out.. Among other things, he claimed the motor spun freely. Since I
> was going to do a complete rebuild anyway, that was fine. The
> is that I have never seen an engine more solidly seized.
> I tried the breaker bar that people mentioned. I tried the breaker
> bar in combination with a strap wrench on the damper and nothing
> worked. I didn't use compressed air.
> I put the motor on an engine stand and removed the heads, oil pan and
> top. This gave me access to both the top and bottom of the
> cylinders. I turned the motor sideways on the stand and squirted
> different solvents at different times into the tops and bottoms of
> each cylinder. Those cylinders facing up got the solvents to the top
> of the piston and those facing down got the solvents to the bottom of
> the piston. I let it soak for a day and then turned the motor the
> other way to get to the tops and bottoms of the other set of
> This went on for a couple of weeks without success.
> I decided to dismantle the engine. I tried to remove the rod caps so
> I could remove each piston and cylinder as an assembly. Because the
> engine had seized in exactly the wrong position, I could only get to
> some of the nuts for the rod caps. I did remove two piston/cylinder
> assemblies this way but the remaining four cylinders were still
> seized. Because I couldn't get to the remaining nuts with a socket
> wrench, I had to resort to using an abrasive wheel. By the way, once
> the two piston/cylinder assemblies were removed, it gave me access to
> a couple more nuts through the open holes but even one nut in place
> a rod cap is enough to prevent removal.
> Once I had all six piston/cylinder assemblies out, I had to separate
> one from the other. I used my hydraulic press. With a couple
> assemblies, it was difficult setting them up on the press because the
> wrist pins had seized too and the rods had frozen sideways. Keep in
> mind that frozen piston rings are only part of the problem. Wrist
> pins, rod bearings and main journal bearings can get stuck too. I
> to push the press to its limit and when the rings released, it
> like a small caliber pistol shot. Of course, the pistons and rods
> were trash but I sent the cylinders off to a vendor to be
> I could bitch about other things the guy who sold me the motor did
> but those are stories that are not pertinent to seized motors.
> With all that, I ended up with the proper crankcase for my car,
> rebored cylinders, a rebuildable turbo and carb, the proper
> distributor, etc. Because of the way the seller shipped it, there
> damage to other components but nothing that couldn't be fixed or
> replaced. All-in-all, even if the seller is a member of VV, I will
> never buy a motor, car or other significant part remotely unless the
> individual is truly trusted or someone I trust inspects the unit in
> I hope this helps.
> Good luck Ignacio
> '60 Corvette; '61 Rampside; '62 Rampside, '64 Spyder coupe, '65
> Greenbrier; '66 Canadian Corsa coupe; '67 Nova SS; '68 Camaro ragtop;
> '70 3/4 ton Chevy C20 pickup plus a couple other non-Chevy vehicles
> ... forgive me
> In a message dated 6/20/2018 5:55:47 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2018 22:28:11 -0500
> From: Ignacio Valdes <ivaldes at hal-pc.org>
> To: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Subject: <VV> Freeing a stuck motor.
> <CANPWqJFfZWdREwCz3pegPsrVg=Ywip30zw_v7EJKRN40QmsejQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> Hi, I am giving the old college try for a 1964 stuck motor that was
> to me for 'free'. It is out of the car on the floor. A 3/4 inch
> wrench on
> the harmonic balancer bolt head does not make it budge. The starter
> is bad.
> I pulled the plugs and poured a gallon of ATF into the spark plug
> today. How long should I wait and are there any other ways of trying
> to get
> it moving other than the bolt head on the harmonic balancer? -- IV
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