<VV> 1964 Corvair Monza 2-door coupe 95 hp automatic

Hugo Miller hugo at aruncoaches.co.uk
Sun Oct 6 09:45:52 EDT 2019


I would suggest holding the plug lead half an inch away from a ground. 
A spark should jump that gap at atmospheric pressure. I think that 1/4" 
is borderline - it may jump a 1/4" at atmospheric pressure but that may 
not be enough to jump a plug gap under compression.

On 2019-10-05 22:21, Doug Mackintosh via VirtualVairs wrote:
> Mike, anything that causes the carb fuel bowls to empty would stall
> the car. One possibility, which I have encountered, is a weak fuel
> pump, or a leaking hose in the fuel line connection in the left rear
> wheel well. The fuel pump may be delivering enough fuel to keep the
> car idling forever, but when it is actually driven the fuel demand
> exceeds the fuel pump delivery, so that it gradually drains the fuel
> bowls till it stalls. You can disconnect one of the lines at the carb
> and connect a hose from the line to a coffee can, then crank the
> engine to measure the fuel flow rate (factory spec says it should
> deliver 1 pint within 40 seconds). 
> I also agree that you should try a known good coil. Also, next time
> it stalls, just pull the coil wire and hold it about 1/4 inch from
> ground and crank the car to see if you are getting any spark. That
> would quickly separate ignition vs fuel causes.
> -- Doug Mackintosh Corsa member since 1996 Corsa/NC member since
> 1996, Virtual Vairs member Corvair owner 1969-1971 and 1996-on
> <<Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2019 11:25:11 -0700
> From: Mike Dick <mike29a2 at yahoo.com>
> To: "virtualvairs at corvair.org" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Subject: <VV> 1964 Corvair Monza 2-door coupe 95 hp automatic
>     powerglide
> Message-ID: <mailman.379.1570215311.12483.virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I bought this car from a lady whose boyfriend tinkered with it but it
> barely ran. I replaced the gas tank, put the two rebuilt carbs on, 
> new
> plugs, points, distributor cap and wires, rotor, and changed the oil.
> I put some Union 76  fuel (91 octane) in it and she fired up and
> sounded good. Put the timing light on it and set the timing. Took it
> out for a spin and it sounded, and ran great....for about two miles.
> The motor starting sputtering, like it was starving for fuel, it
> backfired twice, and was cutting out real bad. I pulled over and
> checked the motor. Everything looked good, nothing unusual. I let it
> sit for about a half hour then restarted it and it fired right up and
> sounded good. Drove off and was okay for about a mile then started
> doing the same thing again. I got it home safely and parked it for a
> couple hours. I restarted it and let it idle in my driveway for about
> a half an hour and there was no issues with it. I'm reluctant to take
> it back out for another drive until I c
> an figure out what is going on with it. I'm not much of a mechanic. I
> got this car because I'm a 62 year old guy that used to have one of
> these when I was a kid. My 16 year old grandson lives with me and he
> and I have been working on this thing together and I want him to have
> it when we get done with it. Could the distributor vacuum be causing
> this to happen? I didn't replace it but replaced the hose to the 
> right
> carb. Vapor lock? Trying to understand why the sputtering and 
> spitting
> only happens after the engine gets hot. Maybe electrical and not fuel
> related? Looking for direction as to what I need to look at. Maybe 
> the
> coil? I sure would appreciate any help you can offer. Thank you in
> advance. Mike Dick>>
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