<VV> Front Spring Replacement

Jay Maechtlen jaysplace at laserpubs.com
Thu May 28 02:24:38 EDT 2020

When whacking the spindle to pop the ball joint taper loose, I loosen 
the nut only a turn or two at most. I want plenty of thread there to 
keep things restrained when the taper pops loose.
Of course the car is supported well, and the spring is trying to push 
the ball joint down through the spindle knuckle.
I suppose the spring force would be greater if you jacked the control 
arm/spindle up and added a spacer (2x4?) under the upper control arm 
about where the rebound bumper is. That way the spring would be more 
compressed and hence pushing harder against the lower control arm.
I suppose some penetrating oil on the taper wouldn't hurt either.
Actually a second person to hold the backing hammer would be nice. I've 
never had such a person available when I was actually ready to start 

On 5/26/2020 9:59 PM, FrankDuVal via VirtualVairs wrote:
> Or, don't risk damaging the boot and use the two hammers like the shop 
> manual says. You don't tap the joint with a hammer, you use two large 
> hammers (24 to 40 ounces) and pop the joint like a zit! I know, not 
> the best words to write, but it does convey the procedure! This is not 
> a two year old car anymore. Sometimes I need to haul off and hit it 
> with all my might, but even the rusty ones come apart with the two 
> hammer method. I've gotten the fork stuck on rusty ones. If you can 
> hit both hammers at the same time on opposite sides, that gives the 
> best results. But, usually there is not enough room to do that, so one 
> hammer is wedged into position and the other one is swung.
> Leave nut on threads, loose a few turns, as you WILL hit them!
> Tie rod rubber seals are available, but ball joint seals are not. If 
> you find a source, please post here.
> It is usually possible to pry the backing plate away from the lower 
> ball joint with a large pry bar. It does take force. Taking the two 
> bolts out was probably easier.
> Frank DuVal
> On 5/26/2020 6:17 PM, R via VirtualVairs wrote:
>> When using the Fork you can save the rubber boot by greasing the fork 
>> first and then insert the fork flat side toward the boot making sure 
>> the fork rides over the top of the boot.
>> RCS
>> On May 26, 2020, at 5:13 PM, Bill H. via VirtualVairs 
>> <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
>>  B"H
>> Hi everyone...hope you're all staying healthy and happy :)
>> Last week I finally decided to replace the saggy front springs on my 
>> 66 Monza.  What a job, I was sore for days afterward :(
>> In any case, the Corvair Shop Manual says you should drop the lower 
>> control arms by undoing the lower ball joint (excuse me, "Spherical 
>> Joint" which relaxes the spring.  It also instructs you to remove the 
>> shock absorber and undo the stabilizer bar bracket.  But after 
>> following that procedure,  I was still unable to get the lower 
>> control arm to drop all the way down.
>> What I had to do was to unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the steering 
>> knuckle to the brake backing plate, then it dropped. However the shop 
>> manual makes no mention of undoing those 2 bolts.
>> They also instruct you to tap on the joint with a hammer.  I can't 
>> for the life of me figure out how to get a hammer in there to "tap on 
>> the joint," I ended up using a front-end fork to separate the joint 
>> from the backing plate.
>> Has anyone else had the same experience?  I'm curious.  By using the 
>> fork I tore the rubber grease retainer so I'm probably going to have 
>> to drop the whole kit and kaboodle again!
>> Best Wishes and thanks folks...Bill Hershkowitz66 Monza Sport Sedan
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Jay Maechtlen
'61 2-dr modified w/fiberglass skin,
transverse 3.8 Buick V6 TH440T4 trans

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