[FC] PANEL BONDING GLUES - look at this!

[Merv Krull and or Loretta Prosser]

page 68 of the February 1992 issue of Rod and Custom magazine features the 
use of a tool called, "The Blade". It uses the extreme heat generated by a 
corrugated stainless steel blade mounted on an angle grinder and held 
against the area that needs that little bit of extra finishing that even the 
best dollying cannot accomplish. The disk heats up the high points. Hit it 
with a cold wet cloth and the hot metal shrinks. Repetition will eventually 
remove every high point and result in a perfectly smooth surface.
So go ahead and cut out the old piece and tack a new panel in. And get "The 
Blade" to help you out with making the seams disappear.
g'luck mate!
Merv Krull
Salmon Arm, BC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <EconoUSAParts@aol.com>
To: <corvanatics@corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 6:32 PM
Subject: [FC] Re: PANEL BONDING GLUES


> In a message dated 9/18/2004 7:27:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> corvanatics-request@corvair.org writes:
>
>
>> I'm concerned about distortion where the patch
>> overlaps the old metal on the top.  I'm also considering pop-riveting 
>> along
>> the top.
>>
>
>   Ive heard of folks using this with good success,however if it were me I
> would have to think long and hard about what I was expecting from the 
> outcome.
> If you are looking for perfection I dont think it would be the way to go 
> since
> the surfaces wont be the same afterwards since you are covering over one 
> with
> another, so there will be two different surface levels to be dealt with.
>       As far as distortion from welding if you do it by tack welding in
> stages and allowing the area to cool between welding you shoudnt get
> distortion.
> Its usually when you weld a continuos line without the metal having a 
> chance
> to
> cool that you get the distortion.
>       I would definitely stay away from pop rivets if possible since you 
> can
> usually find them popping out later on as the paint job ages. If its just 
> a
> daily driver that you arent that concerned about then just do it the way 
> thats
> easiest for you. Its generally when you get into the nicer paint jobs that 
> you
> want to be more concerned about what type body repair methods you use.
> Personally I prefer to cut out the bad metal completly and weld in new. 
> You
> know
> that will be solid and last a long time provided its done right.
>
>                                                       Tim in Ky
>                                                Econo USA Parts
>                                 Your used 61-67 Econoline parts source
>                               Constantly parting out E100 vans and trucks
>                                            A100 parts also available
>
>                                                  Ebay Falcon1966
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