<VV> Wanna be spoiled.

Songs by Steve sgarskof@tampabay.rr.com
Tue, 6 Jul 2004 20:28:43 -0400


Regarding Joe Robbins' post, I really enjoyed watching the
"metamorphosis" of his car.  Few people would take on such a project
these days, and as he said, it's easier to get a turnkey car.. but then
again, even a turnkey has hidden problems.  When you build it yourself,
nothing is left unnoticed, or untouched.  Cool Car, Joe.

Now, for my question... a while back I read that a certain front spoiler
would fit the EM's.  Something like a '94 S-10 or thereabouts (flexible
black plastic). Looks like they can be had for about $30-$40, but I
don't remember which one it was.  Can someone help?  

Thanks!!!

Steve G (Florida)
'62 convertible (not spoiled)






Songs by Steve
- Personalized Songs
- Messages on Hold
- Voiceover Services
Tel: 727-343-2772
FAX: 603-697-0755
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-----Original Message-----
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Today's Topics:

   1. RE: Mustang or Corvair (long) (Joe Robbins)
   2. RE: UM Updates??? (BEllison@bbafiberweb.com)
   3. Re: Electric die grinder (Greywolf)
   4. Optima Batteries (JWCorvair@aol.com)
   5. Re: Re: Electric die grinder (Paleofish)
   6. drive train removal under Finch (GB)
   7. Painting a Corvair in 2004 (Robert Marlow)
   8. Putting a new (to me) motor in my monza... (cash case)
   9. RE: Putting a new (to me) motor in my monza... (N. Joseph Potts)

--__--__--

Message: 1
From: "Joe Robbins" <robbins@monticello.net>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Subject: RE: <VV> Mustang or Corvair (long)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 06:27:24 -0500

I couldn't sell any car that I had that long, you'd never be able to
find
another one like it for the price. You know everything good and bad
about
the car you have. Brand and make doesn't matter here, they don't make
them
anymore right ?  I'd keep it .  I restored an IL rust bucket and of
course
have twice the $$ in it than I should but I saved one well optioned
Monza
from the crusher. Buying one is much cheaper than restoring one unless
maybe
you want a driver that can be bondoed to the hilt and a cheap paint job
thrown on. We replaced 9 metal panels on DaVair and had to create metal
where there was none and none could be bought. To see the insanity of
what
can happen, check the pics of the car, I added a couple of new ones.
http://community.webshots.com/user/davair1
 My 2 cents.

Joe Robbins


-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]
On Behalf Of Delta Inc
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 2:14 AM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Mustang or Corvair (long)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirk Eck" <kc_eck@sbcglobal.net>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: <VV> Mustang or Corvair (long)


> Well I know you guys will think less of me (I know you
> have such a high opinion of me now) but I have to
> come clean MY NAME IS KIRK AND I OWN A FORD, I have a
> 65 Mustang Fastback,> Any thoughts?
> Kirk Eck
**************
Don't even consider selling the Mustang.  Consider letting go your left
arm
or .... did you say you have a wife ... (g) ... but not *the * car.
Get that rusty bondo-ed-up corvair, and work on getting the running gear
working, maybe even " running goooood " ..... there are various schemes
to "
stabilize" rusty corvairs, so you can put body work off a few years ( 5
or
12 ) and it won[t get much *worse*, ..... also, rebuilding or replacing
with
used ----  running gear is much cheaper than doing a good job on the
body
work... less than almost perfect work on bodies usually means doing that
over and over ..... I suggest fixing up the go & performance stuff ( the
fun
part ) and meanwhile as a minimum sign up for night classes in welding,
as
in Mig & Tig ...
Hope this helps .. Ken Campbell, Iowa ... guy who traded his magnificent
Olds '67 convertible 442 away ... the guilt and pain is still with me
...
sigh ....
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--__--__--

Message: 2
From: BEllison@bbafiberweb.com
To: nschuess@homesteadhotels.com, virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: RE: <VV> UM Updates???
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 07:43:07 -0400 

Chuck, thanks for the possible new member !!

Norm,

This is a public invitation to attend the Corsa SC monthly meeting, the
2nd
Tuesday of every month, currently being held at the Classic Cafi on Wade
Hampton blvd (that's hwy 29 coming from Spartanburg, but I-85 would be
easier, less red lights).  It's approx 30 mins from downtime
Spartanburg.
Our members come from as far north as the NC state line, and as far
south as
Anderson SC.  We have a couple of members in Greer.

Several of this Years National Convention awards will be cited this
coming
Tuesday 13th... Including 3rd place in the Rally touring class (ME!),
Hard
Luck Award, 3rd place in early open people's choice, and the Don Yenko
award
(my older brother), not to mention 5th place in the valve cover races
(my
Dad).  It sucks that I personally cannot attend.

We have a picnic coming up, this month, seems it's the 18th.  In the
next 3
months, we have an econo run, a rally, and an autocross scheduled.  The
autocross has been getting rave reviews as of late.  (I'm only there to
help.)  

I'll email you a newsletter under separate email.  Looks good in color.

Thanks,

Barry Ellison
Corsa SC VP
65 Corsa
61 Lakewood
69 Vette
84 Honda CRX
95 Impala SS - got it running, bad fuel pump, still for sale
00 Durango
84 Fleetwood Bounder RV

Insurance man gets LOTS of my money.


> complete fitch cart) on the trailer and the AC pieces in da Brier. I 
> thanked Norm
> and urged him to join a club or two in SC + NC. He feels like he may 
> finally be able
> to have a little time to socialize and drive his Corvair so 
> you Carolina 
> folks make him
> feel welcome as he and his wife are good folks. How's that Boss ???
> 
> da Chuckster 
Please note: This message may contain information which is privileged
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--__--__--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 08:08:43 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Greywolf" <greywolf200@tcia.net>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Subject: <VV> Re: Electric die grinder

Hello Bob,

I have an old Craftsman die grinder that has served me well for years.
I
also have a DuMore which is a professional, heavy duty tool.  Actually,
I
can't tell that the DuMore is any better that the Craftsman.  If you're
going to use it much, I'd stay away from Dremel and go with a  quality
brand
name.  For all you Dremel owners, I also have one of those and when you
limit it's use to light duty, it does okay also although they don't seem
to
live long.

Jack Byrd,  63 Coupe, 66 Corsa, 71 Blazer

----------Original Message----------
From: "Bob Gilbert" <bgilbert@redshift.bc.ca>
To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 22:46:09 -0600
Subject: <VV> Automotive Tool Question - No Corvair

Hi,

Does anybody out in VV land have any experience with electric die
grinders?
My son has asked for one for his birthday (for doing port work on an
Eagle
Talon). I have no direct experience and they vary in price from $20 to
$200
so I want to make sure I make a reasonable choice. BTW, air powered die
grinders are not an option.

Any help most appreciated!

Thanks,
Bob

[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name
of IMSTP.gif]

--__--__--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 09:04:35 -0400
From: JWCorvair@aol.com
To: Virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Optima Batteries

Is anyone using an Optima in an EM? If so, what model?

Regards - Joe White

--__--__--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 07:07:47 -0600 (MDT)
From: Paleofish <sbuna@unm.edu>
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org, <bgilbert@redshift.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: <VV> Re: Electric die grinder

I have used everything from the $20 version you can get at places like 
walmart to the $200 fordom grinders.  there is one thing critical making

them both as effective and that is the snake extension.  it is what
makes 
the tool functional.  once you get the extension,it really doesn't
matter 
what you get.  the rest is all featurs.  The expensive ones you can 
replace the parts if something breaks internally/  Some of the more 
expensive ones come with a foot pedal which is absolutley wonderful for 
somethings but useless when you are using it under a car.  also when you

chose out one see what other things you can get for it.  Some of them
you 
can snap the grinder to drill press set up makes drilling relly tiny
holes 
very easy.  before you chose out what you get, concider what your son is

going to be doing with the die grinder.  But get the snake extension.
The 
only die grinder I haven't used the snake with was a pnumatic one and it

is was cause the extension wouldn't fit under the microscope.  

Sally


On Tue, 6 Jul 2004, Greywolf wrote:

> Hello Bob,
> 
> I have an old Craftsman die grinder that has served me well for years.
I
> also have a DuMore which is a professional, heavy duty tool.
Actually, I
> can't tell that the DuMore is any better that the Craftsman.  If
you're
> going to use it much, I'd stay away from Dremel and go with a  quality
brand
> name.  For all you Dremel owners, I also have one of those and when
you
> limit it's use to light duty, it does okay also although they don't
seem to
> live long.
> 
> Jack Byrd,  63 Coupe, 66 Corsa, 71 Blazer
> 
> ----------Original Message----------
> From: "Bob Gilbert" <bgilbert@redshift.bc.ca>
> To: <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
> Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 22:46:09 -0600
> Subject: <VV> Automotive Tool Question - No Corvair
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody out in VV land have any experience with electric die
grinders?
> My son has asked for one for his birthday (for doing port work on an
Eagle
> Talon). I have no direct experience and they vary in price from $20 to
$200
> so I want to make sure I make a reasonable choice. BTW, air powered
die
> grinders are not an option.
> 
> Any help most appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob
> 
> [demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name
of IMSTP.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights
are the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help,
mailto:vv-help@corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs@corvair.org
> List info: http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/listinfo/virtualvairs
> _______________________________________________
> 


~~Sally
Johnson~~~<}}><~~~~www.unm.edu/~sbuna~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
when those pesky Mongolians try to invade, they'll come to the wall and 
say "Oi! We can't invade China! They've got cute fishies!" 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~

--__--__--

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 09:13:04 -0400
From: GB <microsys@alltel.net>
To: Corvair List <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Subject: <VV> drive train removal under Finch

Hello,

I used the Finch book last weekend to prepare to remove my drive train
for cleanup/overhaul of my 65 vert.  Well, it said to remove the rear
engine
cover and engine cover.  No such parts exist according to the chevy
manual.
I am presuming they meant the engine seal, all the way around.  Now for
the
rear cover, perhaps they mean  the cover on the bottom that might cover
up
the rear engine mount?  I found no clutch return spring and no cotter 
pins in the
front engine mount nuts (wierd!).

Thanks,

Glen

--__--__--

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2004 09:22:03 -0400
From: Robert Marlow <nortechcorp@optonline.net>
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Subject: <VV> Painting a Corvair in 2004

When I painted my '66 500 coupe this past Spring, the job was chronicled
with a series of photos.  The webmaster of my local club assembled these
photos, with my captions, into a feature on the NJACE web site.

Unusual about this job is that it was my first experience with the new
waterborne primers, and it was the paint shop's first experience using
this
process on a vintage car.

Check it out at

http://www.corvair.org/chapters/njace/painting_a_corvair_in_2004.html

At the bottom of each page is a clickable link to the subsequent page.

A few of you who provided photos to me will recognize your shots on the
final page.

--Bob


Robert W. Marlow
nortechcorp@optonline.net

--__--__--

Message: 8
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Cc: Cash Case <cash.case@sbcglobal.net>
From: cash case <cash.case@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 08:33:07 -0500
Subject: <VV> Putting a new (to me) motor in my monza...

Hi guys. I bought a 110 motor to replace the one that never made it 
back from the shop...
I have a question. The last thin g I did with this car was to change it 
over to a manual.
I'm guessing that mating up the transaxle and the engine would be best 
done with the transaxle out of the car.
Can this be done without any specific tools other than ratchets and 
good aim?  ;op
And, is there anything I should look out for while doing this?
-C

[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of cash face.jpg]
Cash Case
"Some people are like slinkies.
They're not worth much,
but you can't help but smile
when they tumble down the stairs!"

--__--__--

Message: 9
From: "N. Joseph Potts" <pottsf@msn.com>
To: "cash case" <cash.case@sbcglobal.net>, <virtualvairs@corvair.org>
Subject: RE: <VV> Putting a new (to me) motor in my monza...
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 10:14:20 -0400

Your question was pretty open-ended, so I'll ask a specific one: the
engine
you acquired - is/was it for a manual transmission?
      What are the years of the hardware involved: that is: (a) year of
the
engine (or lacking that, suffix code); (b) year of the transaxle you
intend
to mate it to; and (c) year of the (rest of the) car?

Joe Potts
Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-admin@corvair.org]On Behalf Of cash case
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 9:33 AM
To: virtualvairs@corvair.org
Cc: Cash Case
Subject: <VV> Putting a new (to me) motor in my monza...


Hi guys. I bought a 110 motor to replace the one that never made it
back from the shop...
I have a question. The last thin g I did with this car was to change it
over to a manual.
I'm guessing that mating up the transaxle and the engine would be best
done with the transaxle out of the car.
Can this be done without any specific tools other than ratchets and
good aim?  ;op
And, is there anything I should look out for while doing this?
-C


--__--__--

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VirtualVairs@corvair.org
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