<VV> FC - Dual Master

Marc Sheridan sheridanma@adelphia.net
Tue, 6 Jul 2004 22:20:31 -0400


JR,

>From what I've read, the main advantage to using silicone fluid is that it
doesn't attract water, which means your brake lines won't rust from the
inside out. This makes it very attractive to the hobby car crowd, since
hobby cars don't get out much.

However, there are disadvantages to using silicone brake fluid. According to
Auto Restorer magazine, it has some soft pedal issues and once air is in it,
the only way to get it out is to flush the system and put new in, that
hopefully hasn't been agitated, which adds air. Another problem is that it
isn't compatible with  regular brake fluid and it isn't real easy to remove
all traces of the old before installing the silicone fluid.

In my case, for what that is worth, I decided to go with Valvoline SynPower
synthetic brake fluid. It costs more, may not be worth it, but it just
seemed like a good compromise to the silicone route and it is compatible
with the cheap stuff.

What helped my brakes the most, was the installation of stainless steel
brake hoses in place of the old rubber hoses. The pedal is much harder and
the difference is almost like I installed a brake booster.

Marc Sheridan
'66 Monza 'vert 110/4

From: "J R Read_HML" <hmlinc@sbcglobal.net>

> OK,  Almost all the parts have arrived.  One more bend in the brake line
to
> show up and it is promised for tomorrow.
>
> This all started because the gas tank in the Rampside developed a slight
> weep.  Ya' know how one thing leads to another?  A replacement tank has
been
> prepped and is ready to install along with a tested sending unit.  While
the
> tank is out, why not do those rusty looking brake lines.  If replacing all
> the brake lines, may as well do hoses, probably rebuild wheel cylinders -
at
> least look them over and, oh yeah... always though about putting a dual
> master in the Rampy... NOW would be the time.
>
> It will happen very soon and I've not yet decided what brake fluid to use.
> I think I want to stay away from DOT3 because of the internal corrosion
> aspect.  I've used DOT 5 - in a '66 convert I no longer own.  I was happy
> enough with that, except that it seemed a bit pricey and not always
readily
> available.
>
> So, I'm trying to decide DOT 4 or DOT 5?  Others?  Is there DOT 5A and 5B?
> I know that I've seen this discussion in the past (yrs ago) on VV, but it
is
> a bit foggy at this point.  Without trying to start a 10 day thread OR a
> flame war, could you folks offer up suggestions about your favorite and
why.
>
> It is unlikely that I'll be racing the Rampside, although I did autocross
it
> once.  That was interesting!  I typically drive the truck when the weather
> is too cool for the convert, but staying away from the SALT season.  So
> Spring and Fall, depending upon temps and precipitation.  Probably in the
> range of 3,000 to 6,000 miles per year.
>
> I'll be happy to report back my final decision once it is made.
>
> Attachments are scanned with anti-virus software.
>
> Later, JR