<VV> Repair/rebuild 110 - What would you do?

[cash case]

Now I'm a little worried after reading this poor fellow's email.

I've got a 110 that I've had cleaned and the crank turned to 10 
thousandths and the cam reground. I installed the crank and cam and 
torqued the case halves back together. I've had to wait so long on the 
piston and jugs that I've forgotten this part about the #4 bearing 
causing problems. Is there a way for me to see if I've put the wrong 
bearings in the wrong place? I got the bearings from Clark's about 
three years ago. Are they labeled?	
-Cash


On Jul 19, 2004, at 2:53 PM, BobHelt@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/19/04 11:52:09 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> ChiefTAM@aol.com writes:
>
>> I drove the car three  times, for about 60 miles,
>> and noticed a hammering.  Teardown revealed #4  rod bearing trashed, 
>> and now
>>
>> damage to a once standard relatively low mileage  crank.
>>
>>
>
> Todd,
> This is a tough one. One one hand you may have installed a bad (wrong)
> bearing on #4 and got this problem.  so maybe a little crocus cloth 
> would return
> that journal to useable condition. Then you could install another 
> correct bearing
> and run the car to see what happens. If it fails again, then you will 
> have a
> total teardown on your hands. But there is a chance all will be well. 
> Or there
> may be a partially blocked oil passage.
>
> If you decide to do that, I suggest this little procedure. With the 
> engine
> intact, except for the removal of the top cover (with the bearing) and 
> removal
> of the #4 rod (and piston/cyl) get an oil pimp driving rod from 
> Clark's and set
> your drill motor to running the pump (engine off!). Now manually 
> rotate the
> crank very slowly so as to align the drilled passageway in the crank 
> with the
> main bearing feeding it. Allow oil to flow out the end hole in the 
> crank for
> #4. But try to catch or sop-up the oil since it may contain debris. 
> The idea
> here is to clean out the oil passages feeding the #4 rod bearing.
>
> But on the other hand, if you want to try to find the problem and fix 
> it
> right, you will need to tear down the engine and split the crankcase. 
> Check all of
> the oiling passages. mike the crank, maybe grind it. That is probably 
> going
> to be the only sure way. Sorry.
> Regards,
> Bob Helt
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[demime 0.98e removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of cash face.jpg]
Cash Case
"Some people are like slinkies.
They're not worth much,
but you can't help but smile
when they tumble down the stairs!"