<VV> Leaking Seals & Fork/Throw-Out Bearing Questions

larry@forman.net larry@forman.net
Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:03:54 -0800 (PST)


Hi Gary,
The good news is that all these are relatively easy to replace and can be done in the car.  Since I have been working on Earlies lately,
someone please correct me if I mess up on this Late info.

The front shift shaft seal is relatively easy to replace.  The tricky part is if you have a seal that does not have a "lip" on it to make it
easier to remove.  If not, then simply drill two small holes 180 degress apart into the metal part of the seal with a small drill bit and
insert two sheet metal screws.  Then you can take a set of vice grips and yank it out.  Work it from both sides so it comes out straight,
which is easier than cocking it.  You will be replacing it anyway, so drilling in there is no worry.  It will leak a little, but just take a
socket and drive the new seal into place.  Some people take vasoline and pre-fill the inside cavity of the seal with it to help keep the
garter spring in place.  A little lube on the outside might help it go into place.  I always have a couple spares just in case it jams when
driving it into place and I happen to trash the new seal.

For the side seals, a seal puller which is a hooked tool is best to help remove the old seal.  A screwdriver really does not work that well.
 I have more trouble with this seal in that I have trashed several driving them in.  So extras here are a good idea.  I have a driver, but
still manage to mess up from time to time. Just take it slow driving it in and make sure it is straight as it starts in.  It is easy to get
these larger seals cocked and then trash them.

BTW, do one side at a time.  Jack up the side you are replacing and then the diff fluid will not run out while you are replacing the side
seals.

As for the clutch release fork, the fingers of the spring get pressed toward the driving part and at all goes into the recessed spacing of
the bearing.  Watch that the shifter fork spring should have two little right angle tabs that ride inside the T.O. bearing and often these
tabs are worn away or ground down quite a lot.  They might even be totally gone.  If so, you likely need a new clutch fork.

HTH,

Larry

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:52:54 -0600 (GMT-06:00), gary62@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> I have a 65 Monza coupe with 4 speed transmission.  The transaxle is leaking in tow places:
> 
> 1.) At the front of the transmission where the shifter shaft comes out.  
> 2.) At the side of the differential where the yokes are attached
> 
> Apparently the seals are bad at these two locations.  Can these seals be placed with the transaxle still in the car or is it preferred to
do it with the transaxle removed?  Also, how difficult is it to replace these seals?  I looked in the manual and they really don't seem to
go into much detail in how to replace these seals (especially the shifter shaft seal).  Can someone describe the proceudre briefly? 
> Also, I have a question on how the fork attaches to the throw-out bearing.  Do both the prongs at the top part of the fork and the lower
> spring-type tabs fit within the recessed part of the bearing, or do the spring-type tabs fit under the bearing with just the top prongs in
the recessed area?  I hope the question makes sense.  The picture in the manual is not totally clear.
> Thanks!
> Gary Readore
> 65 Monza Convertible w/ powerglide
> 65 Monza Coupe w/ 4-speed

Larry Forman