<VV> Ignition and Electrical Questions

[larry@forman.net]

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 15:35:34 -0500, "Anil Mittal" wrote:
> QUESTION 1:
> 
> Backround: 
> The coil which is on the car now says Fire Ball on it. 
> The distributor cap and rotor are fairly new and show no wear. When I installed  the
> electronic ignition I bypasses the resistor wire in the harness  so
> that the coil and ignition get a full 12V.
> Problem: 
> The car starts fine, idles fine, has great power and throttle 
> response. After I drive it for a number of miles (20 to 30) the car 
> just quits. If I let it cool down for about 10 minutes it starts up 
> fine and all is good till it warms up again and the sit and cool 
> cycle starts again. I don't think this is vapor lock since I can  see
> a stream of gas from the accelerator pumps even when the car  does
> not want to start. Would this indicate a bad coil? I do not  know the
> age of the coil. Should I have not run 12V to the coil and  ignition?

Hi Anil,
The answers are YES and YES!  You nearly definitely are overheading the coil.  Since you have so much otherwise tied up in the ignition
system, why not replace the unreliable and heavily stressed component (coil)?  I would recommend the Flamethrower.  You could get a 3 ohm
coil and run it without any ballast resistor as you are doing.  I suspect you are overheating your stock replacement coil that should be run
with a ballast resistor.  I have never had a Flamethrower fail me, but I have had a stock coil exhibit the same symptoms you have seen.
-- Larry
> QUESTION 2:
No help here.

Larry Forman