<VV> weired problem #?

[Larry Forman]

Hi everyone,
I tend to agree with JR on this one.  It seems the issue could be either 
electrical or mechanical.  Here is where I like to take a DVM, cheap at 
Harbor Freight for $5, but the leads tend to break after a short time and I 
need to replace them for another $5 at Radio Shack.  So maybe getting a 
better one is better for the long run.  I would vote on the battery or 
starter wiring or maybe the starter itself rather than a mechanical 
problem.  You can measure the battery terminals NOT the connectors and see 
if the battery holds over 10 volts while cranking.  Then measure the large 
terminal on the starter to ground right by the starter, again, not the 
connector at the starter.  See if you have at least 9 volts at this 
location.  A loose connection at the ground or battery terminals could be 
the issue.  If you have over 10 volts at the battery and more than a volt 
or two drop getting to the starter then check the voltage drops between the 
connectors and the terminals.  You might be surprised that there is a volt 
or more between a terminal and it's connector, even though they are bolted 
together.  The DVM provides good measurement for less than a volt and can 
check these connections.  These connections should have less than 0.2 volts 
when cranking.  Clean each of them and then lube with grease or something 
to prevent corrosion.  Having the starter checked at a FLAPS along with the 
battery is certainly a very good starting point and can be pretty quick to 
fault isolate to electrical versus mechanical issues.

Removing the spark plugs and seeing if the starter really runs fast is 
another approach, but is not a definitive fault isolation technique.  Just 
more information.

HTH,

Larry


At 12:01 PM 5/8/2004 -0500, J R Read_HML wrote:
>I'd say, the first step is to check all connections between battery and
>starter and at ign switch.  Clean, bright, good solid connections?  The
>wiring itself is in good condition?  No corrosion, breaks, weak spots, no
>breaks or worn spots in the insulation, not rubbing on the body someplace?
>Satisfy yourself that there are no problem along those lines.
>
>Next, put a load test on the battery (your FLAPS can do that).  It may not
>be as good as you think.  My hunch is that this is where your problem
>exists.  If all  is OK so far, I'd start looking more closely at the
>starter.  Need brushes?
>
>I'm not inclined to think that the engine suddenly got "tight".  Of course,
>the compression would be higher on a warm engine than a cold one, but this
>is why I suspect the battery.  It is strong enough to turn the (relatively)
>cold engine, but not the hot one.  Should be able to turn the hot one as
>well.
>
>Later, JR
>
>In a message dated 5/8/04 7:24:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> > > Vairdad@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > > but after driving, stopping car then trying
> > > > to restart. will not start, motor turns like the battery is weak.
>timing is
> > > > right, battery good, help any ideas.
> > > > THANKS
> > > > Corvair driver
> > > > Garland