<VV> ignition problem

[Larry Forman]

At 11:36 AM 11/1/2004 -0600, Kinzelman, Andy wrote:
>Guys,
>We've been working on a 63 Monza 102/PG.  It has new points, plugs, coil, 
>dist cap, wires, & condenser.  The plugs & points are gapped to spec; the 
>car is static timed.
>The car didn't want to start, so we replaced the resistor wire with a 
>ballast resistor.  It still didn't want to start very easily, so we ran a 
>switched 12V direct from the battery to the coil.
>The car runs like a turd through the resistor, but runs OK with the full 
>12V.  We haven't checked the voltage through the resistor, but I'm 
>guessing there is a problem in the switch, or wiring.
>Any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Andy K.

Hi Andy,
Here are some things to check:
1. Get or borrow a DVM and measure the voltage on both sides of the 
ignition coil to ground.  When starting the coil positive should be 12 
volts and drop to maybe 6-9 when running.  Measure the negative side when 
the car is stopped and you slowly rotate the crank pulley with the ignition 
ON, but the wheels blocked.  Make DARN sure the emergency brake is ON and 
someone would be there to step on the brake if the engine started.  You 
should see the voltage on the negative terminal of the coil go from ZERO 
when the points are closed to the same voltage as on the positive terminal, 
since no current is flowing when the points are OPEN.
2. If the car runs OK with the 12 volts to the coil, that pretty well rules 
out a slipped harmonic balancer or slipped crank gear.  If it runs not too 
well otherwise, these should be checked when you run out of other things to 
check.
3. I would suspect either a faulty points plate ground or a worn points 
plate.  Swapping it out might be another approach.  OR, take a clip lead 
and ground the vacuum advance arm PIN from the points plate to a good 
engine ground and see if anything improves.
4. For the worn points plate, take off the distributor cap and see if you 
can move the rotor shaft laterally.  If so, the bushing in there is worn 
and the distributor needs replacing or refurbishing.  You could also take a 
dwell meter and monitor the dwell when the engine runs with the 12 volts to 
the coil.  If it is not rock steady, swap distributors or rebuild.
5. Pull the distributor and check the drive gear and it's pin for any 
slop.  Often the drive roll pin is quite worn and can create ignition 
timing problems.
6.  How did you statically time the engine?  Did you rotate the distributor 
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until you got a spark, then CLOCKWISE until you got 
another spark and then STOPPED right there and tightened it down with the 
harmonic balancer at the correct advance timing specified for your car?  If 
you reversed the directions you would have the engine timing WAY off.

Please let us know what you find.

-- Larry