<VV> Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal Technique

Garth Stapon stapon1 at earthlink.net
Wed Aug 24 22:01:11 EDT 2005


Keith:

Buy a box of 1/16 or 3/32 " diameter grade 309 stainless steel stick
electrode (flux coated). Grade 312 stainless is also an effective
substitute. The smaller diameter electrode is better.

Set your stick welder at 40-50 amps for 1/16", 60-70 amps for 3/32". Ground
the welder directly to the manifold as this will improve arc starting.

Put a mild steel nut that has the same inside diameter as the stud located
as close to the middle of the hole directly above the broken stud.

Put the electrode inside the middle of the nut and strike an arc on the
stud (that is recessed in the hole) for one second.

(no longer)

Let it cool for three seconds.

Re strike the arc.repeat as many times as is necessary. If you run the arc
for too long, you will weld the stud to the manifold, so one second of arc
time per strike works best.

Try (if you can) to remove some of the flux between arc strikes, but if the
stud is recessed,  it will be difficult.

After 10-12 strikes you should have enough material built up (above the
surface) to weld the stacked tack welds directly to the nut. The flux will
protect the threads in the manifold.

The heat input from the arc will help to free up the stud, but let it cool
to close to room temperature before removal.(Hot metal expands)

Use a wrench on the nut to remove the stud. 

When I have showed this technique to mechanics, they have always bought me
a coffee the next time they saw me.

Regards, Garth
stapon1 at earthlink.net
Late Power Glide Sedans Rule!


> [Original Message]
> From: Keith Hammett <khammett at stainlessfab.com>
> To: <stapon1 at earthlink.net>
> Date: 8/24/2005 9:19:28 AM
> Subject: RE: <VV> Exhaust Manifold update
>
> Mig, tig, arc, and gas.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Garth Stapon [mailto:stapon1 at earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 4:55 PM
> To: Keith Hammett
> Subject: RE: <VV> Exhaust Manifold update
>
>
> Keith:
>
> Do you have access to a welder?
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Keith Hammett <khammett at stainlessfab.com>
> > To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> > Date: 8/23/2005 9:04:33 AM
> > Subject: <VV> Exhaust Manifold update
> >
> > Here are the results on the broken ear manifold:
> >
> > 1) two say the eyebolt repair works just fine
> >
> > 2)  two say to replace with new
> >
> > 3)  one says to use long bolt and stainless hose clamp
> >
> > 4)  two say to weld/braze the broken one
> >
> > 5)  One offered that the casting numbers will identify if it is a 140
> > manifold or not.  Just didn't have the casting numbers.  I am almost
sure
> > they are 110 manifolds, I don't remember any difference between them and
> the
> > verts.
> >
> > 6)  One said to take the opportunity and change to 140 manifolds
> >
> > Armed with this information, it looks like I will try one of the repairs
> to
> > get by with until another manifold can be located.  I might even use the
> > group red convertibles and then just buy new when I get it up and
running.
> >
> > If I use the group red verts then I might install bolts and use the
> > stainless hose clamp trick to keep the rather thin ears in tact as much
as
> > possible.
> >
> > Thanks everyone for your inputs.
> > Keith Hammett
> >  _______________________________________________
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>
>





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