<VV> powerglide leak

[Dave Ziegler]

But Ned, he said the shifting SHAFT not the cable.<GGG> Just drop the 
pan, loosen a 1/4 inch bolt and remove the shaft. There is a small 
O-ring on it that seals when the shaft is replaced. He did say he saw 
staples and he did say a 66, them two don't mix so it's anyones guess 
as to what he needs there.
Also a better fix for a leaking cable is to go to Lowes  or Home depot 
type stores and but a piece of cable splicing shield. It is a heat 
shrink heavy wall tubing lined with a heat activated epoxy. Just clean 
the cable real well and slide the tubing on, apply a heat gun or hair 
drier and it will shrink so tight the epoxy will ooze from the ends. 
Allow a few minutes to cool, re-install and you never have to worry 
again. I think Ken Hand also has the tubing.

Dave.. .
On Dec 7, 2005, at 10:30 PM, AeroNed at aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 12/7/2005 8:57:19 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> hmlinc at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> But,  never had an early - so never had to deal with the  staples.
>
>
> But JR, he said he has a 66. They're not stapled earlies...
>
> The easy explanation for the PG cable fix works if the cable housing  
> is
> cracked. This usually happens near where the cable goes into the 
> trans. You  get a
> piece of gas line with an inside diameter about the same as the OD of 
> the
> cable. Slice the hose so that you can put it over the damaged area of 
> the cable.
>  Place the hose so that the slice is away from the crack in the cable 
> and
> secure  it with some hose clamps.
>
> As for the perimeter seal, lates don't use staples. The seal is held 
> in by  a
> group of small, 1 inch wide, metal strips. These strips have a square 
> "bump"
> that corresponds to a raised square on the seal. This is how the seal 
> is held
> to  the body. The seal has a spring "U" on the other end. The "U" 
> clips to a
> "wall"  on the engine shrouds. This can be difficult along some areas 
> when the
> engine is  completely install, but not impossible.
>
> Now, if you have and early or for the others that do, you would have 
> to  deal
> with staples. Terry "Yoda" Kalp taught me this trick which I think he 
> got
> from the Tech manual (?). First remove all of the staples from both 
> the shrouds
> and the retaining strips. Next drill some small holes in both for pop 
> rivets,
>  about an inch apart. Then just pop rivet the pieces together, of 
> course with
> the  seal in the middle. The pop rivets that the place of the staples.
>
> Hope that helps more than it hurts,
> Ned
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