<VV> EM windshield gasket - FINALLY

Shaun shaun_mcgarvey at shaw.ca
Mon Jun 27 20:37:22 EDT 2005


I'll agree with your method on all but one point:
Don't even think about applying the butyl sealer until after the windshield
is completely installed. Instead, use a nylon stick to peel back the edge of
the rubber far enough to get the end of the caulking gun in and run a bead
around the glass and another around the body.

yea, Vairily ... Shaun

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lonny Clark" <Lonny.Clark at metro1.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: RE: <VV> EM windshield gasket - FINALLY


> The windshield is in! Using the Steele gasket from Underground I was
> able to get it in myself, I did not have to take the car to a pro, nor
> did I need to cut up the stainless trim. Thanks to everyone who posted
> with suggestions.
>
> Here is what did the trick (number 4 is the important piece that is not
> in the instructions):
> 1: Put the rubber onto the windshield.
> 2: Put the cord in the rubber and taped to inside of windshield (as per
> instructions).
> 3: Put the stainless trim into the channel.
> 4: Starting in the bottom center, pull the rubber into place over the
> trim. This pulls the rubber away from the windshield, so place masking
> tape that holds the rubber to the windshield and more importantly
> retains the position of the rubber as it relates to the trim. Do this
> all the way around the windshield using masking tape one inch apart.
> 5: Put butyl rubber bead around the pinchweld, heavy at the corners.
> 6: Spray soapy watery completely around windshield opening.
> 6: Place bottom center of windshield onto the pinchweld and lean back
> the top until it holds its' own weight.
> 7: Check your alignment, slide left or right until it's centered.
> 8: Slowly pull out the cord, working the rubber over the pinchweld. I
> also had a small pick with a 90 degree end to help with this.
> 9: Once the rubber is completely over the pinchweld, I sprayed more
> soapy water all around the opening. Then I started pressing down and in
> slowly and carefully, going from one side to the other so I didn't put
> too much pressure on one point of the glass.
> 10: Once in place, I removed all of the pieces of tape.
> 11: Called up everybody to brag on my mechanikin' skills.
>
>
> Once again, thanks to everyone for their help.
>
> Lonny
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
> [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Bill Hubbell
> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:52 AM
> To: kaczmarek at charter.net; virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: Re: <VV> EM windshield gasket
>
> I received my new EM windshield weatherstrip from Steele Rubber today.
> As
> promised, here is my report comparing it to an original used (OEM)
> weatherstrip.  Refer to pictures at the following site:
> http://community.webshots.com/album/377009302kNOLXF
>
> I am happy to report the Steele weatherstrip does indeed faithfully
> reproduce the correct tapers and channel depths of the OEM weatherstrip.
> I
> actually measured the widths and channel depths of both at the top and
> bottom corners, upper, side, and lower surfaces, and as near as I can
> tell
> they are identical.  Next, I successfully installed the stainless trim
> into
> all four surfaces, and I am satisfied that it fits correctly.
>
> I have not attempted to install a windshield glass and the trim.  Since
> the
> replacement glass is generally not as thick as the OEM glass, I would
> expect
> there to be a little bit of slop as far as the thickness of the glass
> channel is concerned, but I would expect the trim to still fit
> correctly.
> Note that installing the trim and glass into the weatherstrip is not an
> easy
> task even when reusing an old gasket; it would certainly be more
> difficult
> with a new weatherstrip that has not yet been stretched.
>
> Also, keep in mind that in the installed position, the side sections of
> the
> weatherstrip have to curve in the vertical plane (along the sides of the
>
> windshield).  When looking at the used OEM weatherstrip, this curve
> appears
> to be molded in. The reproduced weatherstrip does not have this curve -
> the
> side pieces are flat, but can be stretched to fit the trim.   Although
> the
> observed curve in my OEM weatherstrip could be a result of having been
> forced into that position over many years, I don't think that is
> actually
> the case: my used OEM gasket is still quite soft and pliable, with no
> checks
> or breaks.
>
> One last point: the Steele weatherstrip has a number of molded rubber
> "nubs"
> that stick out on the corners and side sections (leftover from injection
>
> molding, no doubt) and the joints between the sides and top/bottom
> pieces
> are uneven.  Most, but not all, of these defects will be covered up by
> the
> installed stainless trim.
>
> In conclusion, the Steele reproduction weatherstrip is certainly an
> improvement over what has been available elsewhere, but it is still not
> quite an "exact" reproduction.  It should work satisfactorily, however.
>
> Bill Hubbell
>
>
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