<VV> RE: Carb Bushings

corvairs lonwall at corvairunderground.com
Mon Mar 13 13:21:26 EST 2006


Well I dissagree substantially Grant (!)  After selling thousands of 
rebuilt carbs (all done by Steve Goodman) I will repeat that it is 
preferential for a professional with a good fixture to do carb bushings. 
It is very easy for a do it yourselfer to make the result worse than the 
starting point. And while, yes, after a point you will start to see wear 
at the carb body, those are the more extreme examples. In those cases 
either replace the body or use a bushing. 90-95% of the wear we see is 
confined to the shafts, fortunatly. One more point about bushings that 
shouldn't be glossed over - after a number of years when the bushings 
themselves are worn outand need to be replaced, it can be difficult to 
do because the original makers of the bushings may or may not still be 
in business - or even identifiable. - making the carb body garbage.

As for throttle shaft seal kits - they are not designed to take up slop 
in worn shafts - BUT they DO substantially reduce contaminates from 
being drawn in by the carb vacuum, which is what destroys the shfats and 
carb bodies in the first place. If you are  finding "hard" o rings then 
they are not from our kits - as we include Viton o rings in all kits and 
have for over 20 years. We install o ring kits on ALL rebuilt carbs - 
even with new throttle shafts, as we want to reduce any future wear. We 
find the carb shaft o rings to be very useful. You can use them too 
Grant - we don't have a patent on them!   Lon

www.corvairunderground.com

grant young wrote:

>Just catching up on some old posts and noticed one on carb bushings on
>which I have a different opinion (don't we all ?):-)
>  Installing bushings is a fairly easy, low risk adventure. Since you will
>be drilling with a bit that is only slightly larger than the hole (11/32"
>into a 1/4" hole, which is only .29" difference in circumference), the bit
>will practically pull itself through nice and true. Just have a well
>lubricated (slightly used) bit in a good quality drill and go slow.
>(There's a joke in there for you Chuckster). You can screw it up if you
>try, however. Teflon is my favorite bushing material as it requires no
>lubrication, helps seal the shaft, can be easily replaced in a few years,
>and will not cause any wear on the shafts. 
>While shafts take most of the wear, the carb body will eventually start to
>wear. It is not uncommon to find bowls where new shafts alone won't fix the
>leak. If you have more than about .002" total run out you can probably
>expect to have adjustment and idle problems.
>Shaft "seal kits" are "band-aids" at best . They don't remove any slop and
>can harden or swell over time. The O-rings do stay lubricated, however, by
>the fuel that is constantly on them. Usually not a good idea except
>possibly to help with some finicky secondaries.
>The Carbmeister
>
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