<VV> Re: anchoring a tire changer

[djtcz at comcast.net]

I drlled my garage floor for anchors like this one from HOme Depot.
http://www.itwbrands.com/cms/core/editor_images/redhead_dropinancor.jpg

http://www.ramset-redhead.com/multi_prod02.asp

Steel slug, set with a special tool, internally threaded, so when I take the 3/8 inch bolts out, nothing sticks above the floor, but the threaded holes need to be cleaned out before setting up the changer.  The hard part was locating them accurately.  I had to enlarge a few of the hole in the changer base. So far they have handled the torque with absolutely no problem, and I've changed a few tough tires.  When winding off the real tough ones I picture the start of the CONAN movie, where Ahnold ends up pushing that mill wheel around single handed after all the other slaves died off. http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Images/tools/Cheju02.jpg

I bent the bead breaker arms despite carefull set-up.  MAybe because breaking a rusted on 20 year old bead is beyond its scope of work, especially when a cheater pipe goes over the handle.  A brazed in sculptured sheet steel gusset has been sufficient, despite being designed without beneifit of FEA verification.

Even before I got that tool I would not break a radial or other belted tire bead by driving or lowering a car onto it (anymore).  I'm sure I damaged some old Michelins folding the belts by changing them that way. 
--
Dan Timberlake

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Bill Elliott <corvair at fnader.com>

I have the same changer, but have not been as successful (most likely 
because I did not make the legs like you did).

I bought it mainly because the local shop machines couldn't handle my 
10" Mini rims.

I first drilled my concrete floor and inserted lag bolts to hold it 
down. These ripped up at first application of torque. So I drilled and 
used larger bolts. Same result.