<VV> Oil Pressure Switch

J R Read_HML hmlinc at sbcglobal.net
Sun May 14 00:03:05 EDT 2006


Hey Chuck,

There is nothing wrong with your removal method since you are going to throw 
it away once removed.  However - the correct socket for installation is 
appropriate in order to avoid the need to perform the whole job over again 
within a very short time period.

Attachments (if any) are scanned with anti-virus software.

Later, JR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Kubin" <dreamwoodck at yahoo.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 10:59 PM
Subject: <VV> Oil Pressure Switch


> Hey Arjay,
>
> In the days before I could afford a separate, correct
> socket,  I used a slip-joint pliers to remove the
> switch without moving anything else.  You can move it
> a little at a time but it does work.
> For those who want to criticize my using the wrong
> tool, you should see the way I installed ball joints!
>
> Chuck Kubin
> Medieval engineer
>
>
> --- Arjay Morgan <n3lkz at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> The oil pressure switch on my '64 110-engined Monza
>> quit working last week. I determined this with my
>> trusty analog Sperry ohm meter. I have the special
>> socket to remove the switch and a spare switch, but
>> my question is --- do I really have to remove the
>> alternator and the fuel line to replace it, or is
>> there an easier way?
>>
>>   No hurry on this. I gently tapped the base of the
>> switch, not the plastic, and it began to work.
>> Obviously, it was stuck in the open position, but
>> even I know it's only a matter of time before I have
>> to replace it.
>>
>>   Thanks,
>>
>>   Arjay Morgan
>>   64 Monza convert
>>
>>
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