<VV> What's squeaking?

[Bernie Livengood]

Use Spicer Gold U-joints, they are the best and have a
life time gurantee.  Bernie 45yrs + automotive &
aviation experience.

--- Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net> wrote:

> The typical problem is you can only see two of the
> four cap and needle 
> assemblies of each u-joint when you take the axle
> out. The other two are 
> the pressed in ones and the only way to see those
> needles is to take the 
> u-joint out of the axle. Then, why put old parts in
> when new u-joints 
> are not too expensive. But, if the two inspectable
> caps are OK, and you 
> feel no slop in the other two caps, then it is
> probably OK to drive on 
> some more. Be especially watchful for the first sign
> of no grease, a 
> clicky feel to the rotation of the cap. It should be
> a very smooth 
> rotation. Clicky even without slop is time to
> replace.
> 
> There are several u-joints that fit the Corvair axle
> (early and late are 
> the same). It has to do with the meatyness of the
> middle of the joint, 
> grease fittings or not, etc. These are typical
> Chevrolet u-joints from 
> the 60's. A common part number that appears is 513.
> Like the CarQuest 
> u-joints I used last year, the number 513 was in
> their part number. The 
> best FLAPS is the one that has been around since the
> 60's and has car 
> people behind the counter. Even if their memory is
> as fuzzy as mine! .
> 
> Put the same u-joints on both ends of the axle, then
> it doesn't matter 
> which end is which.
> 
> Frank DuVal
> 
> mhicks130 at cox.net wrote:
> 
> >So how do I check the u-joints to see if they're
> bad? They looked and felt fine to me.  Like I said
> tho, the grease in the cups (both ends) was very
> thin and there wasn't a lot of it but they were not
> "dry".  I'm getting no clunking (yet).  It seems
> like an easy enough fix to just replace them but I'd
> hate to do it if it wasn't necessary at all.  This
> axle is the one that had the brake lock up and
> really overheat about a year ago so it's not
> unrealistic to think the u-joint grease (and maybe
> wheel bearing grease) got hot too.  It was a year
> ago though and I haven't had any issues until this
> squeak showed up last week.  
> >
> >BTW, why does NAPA list an inner and outer u-joint
> (with different part numbers)??  Our vendors only
> show one for both ends.  Why don't I just get my
> u-joints from them?  I want to do this this weekend
> and I don't have any vendors in my town.
> >
> >mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >>------------------------------ 
> >>    
> >>
> >If I understand, you greased the u-joints,drove the
> car the squeaking went 
> >away and then returned after a short drive. If that
> is correct, I would take the 
> >axle out and inspect the u-joints. Actually, if I
> were going to drive the car 
> >I would check them anyway. If they are bad the
> squeak will become a loud, 
> >destructive noise when the u-joimt goes on the
> highway. 
> >Bill Pierson 
> >  
> >
> >>------------------------------ 
> >>    
> >>
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