<VV> Paint opinions

[Dennis PLEAU]

As someone who has pretty severe lung problems, don't be adventurous, use a positive pressure mask.  I don't know, but I blame part of it on all the DP40 catilized primer and the catilized paint I shot over the years.  I really good about I wasn't really good about wearing even an organic resperator if I was only shooting a fender or other "small part".  It might also be that I smoked for 15 years when I was younger.
 
Dennis



> From: r.gault at sbcglobal.net> To: aeroned at aol.com; virtualvairs at corvair.org> Subject: Re: <VV> Paint opinions> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2007 21:36:08 -0600> CC: > > Ned,> I'm a garage painter. I've painted a car every 5 years or so for the last> 40 years. That doesn't make me an expert painter, but it does make me an> expert on painting with little experience and rusty technique. ;-) Biggest> problem for an occasional painter is staying in the sweet spot between> orange peel and runs.> > Lacquer - Don't. It doesn't hold up well. It's easy to paint, but hard to> paint smoothly, so you end up sanding and buffing forever.> > Classic Enamel - Don't. Either rough or running - too little sweet spot.> Hard to fix problems later. Dries slow - bug magnet.> > Acrylic Enamel - Haven't tried it. Watched my father screw up a Piper> Comanche beyond reasonable repair with it.> > Base Coat / Clear Coat Urethane - Great stuff. Base goes on easily like> lacquer. Clear is much like enamel, but can be fixed easily. Get a fast> clear. You can probably get a good "ten foot paintjob" without color> sanding and buffing. If you're picky, you can sand and buff. This stuff is> indestructible. I never wax my cars and they look as good as they did when> I painted them. Bet it's more cone proof than the other paints.> > My last job can be seen at www.rbgault.com> > Roger
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