<VV> Paint opinions

[mark at noakes.com]

   =C2=A0My  brothers  ran  a  restoration  shop  in  the  80s  and their
   preferred  =  technique at that time was acrylic enamel with hardener.
   After  it  really  se=  t up, you could buff it out like lacquer. They
   regularly  generated  show  win=  ners  for customers in that era even
   though  they  were very young at the time= ...early 20s...so it didn't
   take  too  much  experience  to  do. It is what was = used on my 66 in
   1985,  and  the  paint is still ok though it is finally showi= ng wear
   and time to do it again if I want it to stay really nice:

   &nb= sp;

   =C2=A0http://blog.mark.noakes.com/blog/Vehicles/66Corvair

   &= nbsp;

   But...base coat/clear coat is the modern technology...at least = until
   the EPA forces a move to water-based paint...which is coming.

   =

   Mark Noakes=C2=A0


   On Dec 5, 2007, r= .gault at sbcglobal.net wrote:

   Ned,
   I'm  a  garage painter. =C2=A0I've painted a car eve= ry 5 years or so
   for the last
   40  years. =C2=A0That doesn't make me an = expert painter, but it does
   make me an
   expert  on  painting  with  little  =  experience and rusty technique.
   =C2=A0;-) =C2=A0Biggest
   problem  for  an=  occasional  painter  is  staying  in the sweet spot
   between
   orange peel a= nd runs.
   Lacquer  -  Don't. =C2=A0It doesn't hold up well. =C2=A0I= t's easy to
   paint, but hard to
   paint smoothly, so you end up sanding a= nd buffing forever.
   Classic  Enamel  - Don't. =C2=A0Either rough o= r running - too little
   sweet spot.
   Hard to fix problems later. =C2=A0D= ries slow - bug magnet.
   Acrylic  Enamel - Haven't tried it. =C2= =A0Watched my father screw up
   a Piper
   Comanche beyond reasonable repai= r with it.
   Base  Coat  /  Clear Coat Urethane - Great stuff. =C2=A0= Base goes on
   easily like
   lacquer.  =C2=A0Clear  is  much like enamel, but= can be fixed easily.
   =C2=A0Get a fast
   clear. =C2=A0You can probably g= et a good "ten foot paintjob" without
   color
   sanding  and  buffing. =C2= =A0If you're picky, you can sand and buff.
   =C2=A0This stuff is
   indestr=  uctible.  =C2=A0I never wax my cars and they look as good as
   they  did  whenI painted them. =C2=A0Bet it's more cone proof than the
   other paints.
   My last job can be seen at www.rbgault.com
   Roger
   =
   PS: =C2=A0Yeah, the Urethanes are carcinogenic (well, actually they a=
   ll are, but
   Urethane is worse). =C2=A0Frankly, I paint with an organic= vapor mask
   in a well
   ventilated  garage,  or once completely outside. = =C2=A0If you're not
   that
   adventurous,  buy  a used respirator suit off e= -bay (<$400) and sell
   it back
   when you get through.
   ----= - Original Message -----
   From: <aeroned at aol.com>
   To: <v= irtualvairs at corvair.org>
   Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 9:51 AM=
   Subject: <VV> Paint opinions
   >  I'm  working  = toward painting my car early next year. I'm looking
   for some
   opinions  =  on the type of paint I should use, lacquer versus enamel.
   My car is
   an= autocrosser/driver more than show car, but I still want it to look
   good.I'm currently leaning toward a lacquer.
   >
   > Thanks,
   > Ned
   >              ______________________________________________________=
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