<VV> Fly wheel question

Frank DuVal corvairduval at cox.net
Sun Jul 22 10:13:54 EDT 2007


I need clarification on your terms of clutch engaged.

If there is a rod bearing noise comming from the engine with the 
transmission in neutral and your foot off the clutch pedal (clutch 
engaged) AND when you step on the clutch pedal the noise goes away, the 
you have loose rivets in the flywheel. I have never had one act 
opposite, but anything is possible on cars....

I use an old block (both halves) with a crank mounted in it to mount 
flywheels to. I bolted a piece of steel onto some top cover bolt holes 
to hold a magnetic mount dial indicator.

Should I even mention I use a DA sander with 80 grit paper to clean the 
clutch surface of the flywheels? If that doesn't clean them, they need 
to be resurfaced. This non-directional surface (made with the DA) is 
also good for brake rotors. Also sand the pressure plate mounting 
surface (60 to 63 owners ignore this...) so the effective height is not 
changed by a few thousandths.

Note: DA sander example  
http://www.nationaldetroit.com/tools/tooldetail.aspx?model=DAQ

Frank DuVal

Cash Case wrote:

> Thank you to everyone for info on this.
> At this point I've not taken the flywheel out of the car. I am pretty  
> sure that's the problem though.
> Intermittent rumbling and vibration, but always when I've got the  
> clutch engaged and goes away when I let the clutch out.
> I have purchased a new pilot bushing and throw out bearing and clutch  
> plate already.
> I figured if I'm getting in there, I better replace everything. I  
> don't want to have to get in there again.
> Just getting the lower control arms back together is enough to make  
> me hesitate.   ;op
> -Cash
>
> On Jul 21, 2007, at 11:52 PM, D. Barry Ellison wrote:
>
>> Cash,
>>
>> Just to be clear on Franks procedure, DO NOT DRILL/PUNCH OUT ALL  THE 
>> RIVETS AT ONCE. (hence Frank's 4 at a time rivet warning)  This  will 
>> cause the relationship of the parts to move, i.e. possibly  into an 
>> out of concentric condition. Without putting a dial gauge  on the 
>> outer rim you can't make sure the flywheel will be  concentric with 
>> the crank.  This is a MUST have condition for  spinning parts.
>>
>> If you're just replacing the rivets "as an upgrade while it's  out" , 
>> Frank's procedure is pretty well spot-on.
>>
>> But then, if your flywheel has loose rivets and you removed it  
>> because it's making noise, you're pretty much back to square one  
>> anyhow because you can HEAR it being out of round.  It needs to be  
>> done professionally.  You need to be able to mount the assy on a  
>> crank and spin the crank slowly with a dial gauge on the outer edge  
>> of the flywheel.  We've got a homemade jig with 2 bearings on each  
>> end where the #1 and #4 main bearing journals rest.  Snug four  
>> bolts, rotate it, tap the outer edge to get it concentric - until  
>> it's almost perfect with as little runout as possible, something <  
>> 0.001 range (if memory serves).  Tighten the 4 bolts, check it  
>> again.  Redo as necessary... install remaining bolts, checking  
>> runout as you go.
>>
>> Using the dial method above I've got maybe 5000 miles on my bolted  
>> flywheel, including a 1st place finish autocrossing in St.  
>> Augustine.  (think high revs, rev limited at 6k) It hasn't come  
>> apart yet.
>>
>> If you attempt it yourself I'm sure that Frank and I will gladly  
>> help you offline from VV.
>>
>> Barry in SC, with a professional near me to teach me things like this.
>> 2 lates, 2 earlies
>>
>>
>>> parts. Do a maximum of 4 rivets a a time, 15 minutes apart if it  
>>> were a clock face. This will keep everything in alignment (if it  
>>> was to start...)
>>>
>>
>>
>
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