<VV> No Brake Lights UPDATE

Borrrris at aol.com Borrrris at aol.com
Thu Jul 26 21:25:11 EDT 2007


 
In a message dated 7/26/2007 12:29:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
corvairduval at cox.net writes:

4. Since  the lamps work with turn signals, no further use looking at 
wiring after  the switch. Look at wiring from fuse panel to brake light 
switch to turn  signal switch.

Frank DuVal



Thanks Frank and all who replied.  Spent some time on it again  today with a 
voltmeter, and brake lights are working again. Fingers crossed  that the fix 
is long term - they're reappeared momentarily at several points  during this 
adventure. At least this time I know what it was that got them  back.
  Poking around under the dash it occurred to me that although  I had tested 
the output at the brake pedal switch early on; I had done so by  pulling the 
connector and putting the test probe on the switch's output  tab.  I had never 
confirmed that the voltage was in the wire past that  point. Sure enough, the 
wire tested dead. Pulled the connector, cleaned it  up internally with emory 
cloth, reconneced, and brake lights were  back.
  One mystery remains. The fact that test results were  different with bulbs 
in the sockets vs. empty sockets.  Today with a meter,  I confirmed that when 
the bulbs are installed ( but socket not grounded/ not in  the housing) and 
only the brake element is receiving full 12v, I  get a weak voltage reading of 
about 3v at the taillight wire as well. put  in both bulbs and it doubles to 
6v.  Enough to weakly light the TAILLIGHT  elements. Pop the sockets into the 
housings to provide ground, and only the  correct Brakelight element is lit and 
no more voltage reading at the  taillghts. Sockets are clean and undamaged, 
bulbs are new; so bulbs are leaking  some voltage between their elements?
 And taillight circuit is finding a ground somewhere else in  the car under 
those conditions?
Is that normal??
 
Thanks again to all,
Matt from L.I. ('66 Monza coupe  110/pg)



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