<VV> No Brake Lights UPDATE
Borrrris at aol.com
Borrrris at aol.com
Thu Jul 26 21:25:11 EDT 2007
In a message dated 7/26/2007 12:29:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
corvairduval at cox.net writes:
4. Since the lamps work with turn signals, no further use looking at
wiring after the switch. Look at wiring from fuse panel to brake light
switch to turn signal switch.
Frank DuVal
Thanks Frank and all who replied. Spent some time on it again today with a
voltmeter, and brake lights are working again. Fingers crossed that the fix
is long term - they're reappeared momentarily at several points during this
adventure. At least this time I know what it was that got them back.
Poking around under the dash it occurred to me that although I had tested
the output at the brake pedal switch early on; I had done so by pulling the
connector and putting the test probe on the switch's output tab. I had never
confirmed that the voltage was in the wire past that point. Sure enough, the
wire tested dead. Pulled the connector, cleaned it up internally with emory
cloth, reconneced, and brake lights were back.
One mystery remains. The fact that test results were different with bulbs
in the sockets vs. empty sockets. Today with a meter, I confirmed that when
the bulbs are installed ( but socket not grounded/ not in the housing) and
only the brake element is receiving full 12v, I get a weak voltage reading of
about 3v at the taillight wire as well. put in both bulbs and it doubles to
6v. Enough to weakly light the TAILLIGHT elements. Pop the sockets into the
housings to provide ground, and only the correct Brakelight element is lit and
no more voltage reading at the taillghts. Sockets are clean and undamaged,
bulbs are new; so bulbs are leaking some voltage between their elements?
And taillight circuit is finding a ground somewhere else in the car under
those conditions?
Is that normal??
Thanks again to all,
Matt from L.I. ('66 Monza coupe 110/pg)
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