<VV> Oil Pressure Socket

Frank DuVal corvairduval at cox.net
Sat Mar 31 19:37:31 EST 2007


Well....

The belt needs to come off anyway, so #1 and #2 are a given to get to 
the oil pressure switch. The fuel line also must be loosened from the 
fuel pump...


OK, just returned from outside and a hands on test.

Skip what I just said. The belt does not need to come off. #1 and #2 
unecessary steps.

I was able to drop my S-K 4488 oil pressure switch socket onto the 
switch without removing ANYTHING! Except the wire from the switch. This 
is a 64 Spyder with an early generator pulley. Now, to unscrew the 
switch, the fuel line (suction) probably needs to be removed from the 
fuel pump to get vertical clearance. And the socket may need to be 
operated in the tilted position once the switch is broken free. A slight 
grinding may negate the need for the tilted removal, but I've never seen 
the need in 35 years. Or, slightly looseneing the two pulley end bracket 
bolts of the alternator may give just enough clearance to not need the 
tilted socket trick.

See of the S-K 4488 is available in your area.

Here is a picture:  http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03218.html

Here it is $2 cheaper:  http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sk4488.html

Frank DuVal

Arjay Morgan wrote:

> I have one of those 'easily removed' alternators. Are you saying that 
> 1)loosening the idler bracket 2) removing the belt 3)loosening the 
> alternator bracket 4)removing the two alternator bolts 5) removing the 
> alternator is an acceptable way of getting the oil pressure switch in 
> and out?
>
> Come to think of it, it might be quicker to do it that way.
> thanks,
> Arjay
>
> */Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>/* wrote:
>
>     Not so much cheating as the possibility of crushing the new oil
>     pressure sender. gggg
>
>     BTW, the 64 generator special large pully is the only one that
>     makes this job hard. An alternator is easily removed, and the 60
>     to 63 generator is easily removed. It is just that darned large
>     pulley OEM to 64s that makes you remove the pulley from the
>     generator before removing the generator. And then the oil pressure
>     sender can be in the way of doing that!
>
>     Frank DuVal
>
>     Arjay Morgan wrote:
>
>>     Aaah, never thought of that. Thanks Frank, I'll be grinding away
>>     tomorrow....of course, I guess I could just use a pair of
>>     alligator jaw vise grips, but that would probably be considered
>>     cheating.
>>
>>     Arjay
>>
>>     */Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>/* wrote:
>>
>>         IIRC, the outside diameter is what needs grinding. You need
>>         to make the
>>         wall thickness as thin as practical.
>>
>>         Just trial fit the socket and grind off what is in the way. I
>>         use a
>>         socket I bought years (35?) ago and it usually works fine,
>>         even if it
>>         isn't fully seated on the switch.
>>
>>         Frank DuVal
>>
>>         Arjay Morgan wrote:
>>
>>         >I seem to recall reading some time back that there was a way
>>         to cut (grind) down a generic oil pressure switch socket so
>>         that it could be snaked past the generator pulley and the
>>         fuel pump inlet to get the oil pressure switch out.
>>         >
>>         >Sadly, I don't remember much more than that.
>>         >
>>         >My question is this: which end of the socket do you grind
>>         down if, indeed, it's possible to do this conjuring trick?
>>         >
>>         >Arjay Morgan
>>         >64 Monza convert
>>         >
>>         >
>>


More information about the VirtualVairs mailing list