<VV> RE: New clutch isn't working

[Bill Meglen]

I like Craig's suggestion. It was not suggested when I had my problem. Not
sure I understand fully the physics but it sounds plausible in my case. I
was conscientious about assuring that the throwout bearing was not riding on
clutch fingers. Perhaps if I had done as Craig suggests. I might have found
that my tight pilot shaft bushing was not the problem (or only part of it)
although changing it for a bushing that was not a tight fit and lapping it a
little (God forbid!) assured a easily ratated pilot shaft and ended my
problem albeit required dropping the powertrain again and examining my
clutch geometry and measuring carefully to assure that not changing my pivot
ball and examining my pilot shaft were not the problem. If my tight pilot
shaft was not the issue, I cannot explain the evidence that the bushing had
spun in the crankshaft. Also wonder whether it would have continued to spin,
and if so, so what?

BTW I too used a complete CU clutch kit and switched from the 1963 to 1964
flywheel.  The shift to the later clutch caused me to worry that the
geometry of the different pivot ball (shorter) was the root of my problem. I
rejected that after noting that clutch fork travel was not impeded.

I sure find Craig's description (explanation) compelling.  Wish I had tried
it before dropping the powertrain the second time.

Thank's Craig for the posting.  It will affect my methodology on future
clutch replacements.

Bill
1963 Spyder with the clutch from hell!


On 11/24/07 18:33, "Craig Nicol" <nicolcs at aol.com> wrote:

> Steve, it has been my experience that new clutches won't fully release until
> they are used a bit. I've had to adjust the clutch linkage to zero or
> slightly less than zero clearance and run that way for 100 miles or so of
> in-town use to smooth them up.
> 
> Once the clutch surfaces are smoothed up a bit, the clutch linkage must then
> be relaxed to normal free play or the throw-out bearing will be damaged.
> Also, for full stroke of the clutch, the starting position of the cross
> shaft by the transmission should be about 5/8" to 3/4" from the transmission
> support - this is at the inboard side where the clutch cable attaches.  If
> the starting point is with the lever resting on the transmission support,
> there won't be enough stroke to fully release the clutch.
> 
> Craig Nicol