<VV> RE: Exhaust down tube replacement

[EVERETT WILSON]

Not entirely true!.. Actually, the pushrod tube is the big offending blocker.  You DO have to undo the rocker arm and pull the offending pushrod and tube out of the way, but this can be done on the car, I had to do it before last winter.  Its about a 2 hour job, depending on how many interruptions you have.  You can wiggle the stack around the stud to make it work. Once you have the manifold off and the pushrod tube out of the way, grab the exhaust stack with a big pair of waterpump pliers and wiggle/pull until it comes out. 
   
  Can you block one side?  YES!  I did that the previous winter.  Reduces flow and BTU output, but at least here in N Texas, still gave me plenty of heat.  I had two problems with fumes, one was the stack, which I fixed and thought I was golden.  Then I drove the car and still had fumes...arrrgh.  Knew which side, but couldnt find the source.  Blocked that side off and put a CO detector on the dashboard to be sure.
   
  The next spring, when I pulled the lower shroud for the summer, I noticed a black speck on the flat of the bottom of the exhaust manifold.  Whats that, I thought.....rubbed it off with my finger and it was soot.  Took a small drill bit (Like 1/32nd) and sure enough, it twisted right thru the hole by hand.  Fume Source number 2 located!!  Spare manifold in the shed fixed that problem!!
   
  HTH.
   
  Everett WIlson
  North Richland Hills TX

Craig Nicol <nicolcs at aol.com> wrote:
  
How difficult is it to remove an exhaust down tube from a head while it is
still on the car? Are there any tricks to make the process easier? My car
has become my driver again, and I have to get the heat going before it gets
too cold...actually, the heater works, but there is a bad exhaust tube on
one side. I've also wondered if I could simply block off that side of the
engine from the heater.
David 

David, the exhaust down-tube cannot be removed with the cylinder head in
place. The tube includes a relief for the lower cylinder head studs and the
relief catches on the tube as it is pulled down. The cylinder head must be
removed to get the tube out. I can't think of any reason why you couldn't
block off that side and maintain some heater function. I worry though that
the other head might be leaking too. Perhaps you should invest in a CO
monitor until it's all repaired.
Craig Nicol

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