<VV> Wrong oil in rebuilt 110

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

>...more reason to run the green GT-1 Bradd-Penn stuff IMHO.
>
Since a lot of the "reported" failures seem to be in new engines, maybe 
one has to consider paying closer attention to a proper Break-In 
Procedure and the oil used for such -- there are numerous websites with 
decent info on them covering the topic, but you have to note anything 
that was posted before these new classes of oils came out may not be 
valid.  Brad Penn has a specific break-in oil that they recommend --
http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7120_BP_PENN-GRADE_1_Break-In_Oil_PB.pdf

Helt may be right that API claims various different grades of oil are 
out there in the same brand, but all I am seeing on the shelf of 
traditional retailers and discounters in this part of Oregon is the new 
SM - CJ-4 only stuff that is low on additives. Anything else looks to me 
like it is old stock they are trying to get rid of -- if it is there, 
buy it up.  But just because "It is the same brand I've used before," 
that don't mean anything any more -- it is the API service 
classification, Ssomething or Csomething!  Yes, Rotella used to be fine 
when it was a SL, CI-4 oil, but now it is a CJ-4 oil and it is no longer 
"fine", depending on package labeling, which you have to read carefully 
on each and every package, in case it is mixed up with old stock.

GM may have discontinued EOS, but it looks like it is now being marketed 
as ACDelco E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant, part # 10-106, available at your 
local ACDelco Service Center or GM Dealer.  Don't yet know if it is 
still the same formula --
http://www.acdelco.com/i/pi_vehcare_lub_10_106.jpg

There is a recent article, 'Modern Oils and the Air-Cooled Engine', on 
the 356 Registry website that may be of interest --
http://www.356registry.org/tech/modern_oil_in_the_356.html

educate yourself and "be careful out there!"

Bill S