<VV> carb rebuilding

[Frank DuVal]

Notes in text:

cfm wrote:

>good morning all.
>I spend some time yesterday pulling that one carb off my 69 monza vert (with a 110/pg). I purchased the minor rebuilt kit from clark's (557L) and as I go through it, I have a couple of questions. This is my first time rebuilding a carb, I am capable.
>
>1.) in the kit, there was a small bag with a new brass viton needle, seal and gasket. Inside the bad were two red gaskets, after pulling the float off and the viton needle, I only see one. However, when I look into the upper half of the carb housing. it looks like there is another one, or is this just an imprint of the old gasket? So why two gaskets? they appear the same in diameter but have different heights, one is thicker than the other.
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There should only be one gasket installed. The choice of the two gaskets 
is thickness. Use the one that gets the float setting more correct. Use 
the one that looks close to the old gasket thickness to start. Use both 
and the setting should be waay off. Of course this setting is 
correctable by bending the floats as in 2 below: There are different 
floats (well at least two) during the ten years of manufacture, and the 
kit typically has parts to cover all variations.


>2.) following the instruction sheet, and the shop manual to some degree, I was determining the float adjustments. I understand that the float is to be parallel with the carb housing and that when its is up the needle is to be closed. There is a measurement to be made with a ruler as to where the floats are, is this to be a specific dimension, or is this a check to insure that the each pontoon is at the same height?
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I use the "parallel is good" for most carbs. Then I double check with 
the measured height. This is a specific dimension, but as with all 
absolutes, exceptions can be made. The higher the float level, the 
richer the high speed mix will be, and the more prone to leaks from the 
body gasket and venturi cluster. The lower the float level, the leaner 
the high speed mix. Do not apply pressure to the needle in the seat when 
doing this adjustment.


>3.) the float spring, when I took it apart the 90 degree bend in the spring was lodged in the slot on the bass threaded piece. In the shop manual one of the illustrations appears that the spring is resting against the brass stem. Which is correct, the way I found it when opened, or the way it appears in the "book"?
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The spring pushes on the seat casting. If there is a slot, it sits in 
it. If there is no slot, it just  rests against the seat casting. It 
will work either way.


>4.) the "bend to adjust" appears in the shop manual and with the instruction sheet. The tap is to put pressure on the needle to close, I understand that part. But when it comes to suspend in the floats, is there another "adjustment" that is required?
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See 5 below:


>5.) on the backside of the float frame, there is a slender rectangular tab that is a part of the pontoon frame, when I removed the float I bent that tab a little bit thjinking it would help with removal, then I discovered you had to tap the rod out to get the float off. What is this tab for? If I bend it back it seems to play a part in how far the float hangs down. Any insight on that part?
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This is the part you bend for the float drop adjustment. Again, apply no 
pressure to the needle in the seat when making this adjustment. The main 
purpose (to me, engineers may have had a different criteria in mind) of 
this adjustment is to prevent the floats from banging on the bottom of 
the bowl (I have seen holes worn in the floats) when the gas is not 
present. And to also insure the needle opens enough to allow fuel flow 
at high usage.