<VV> Electrical charging system problem - Help

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

Fully agree with Frank -- additional comments in brackets --

>From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
>
>
>The voltage regulator controls the voltage output, not the alternator. 
>
>1. New volatge regulator is also defective. Not too common, but can happen. [assuming "new" means "good" is a point I harp about all the time -- it doesn't]
>
>2. The wiring [replaced with "new" - see above] between the voltage regulator and alternator is defective. Specifically the field wire is going to a source of +12 [12-17 battery volts] volts, therefore "full fielding" the alternator.
>
>Unplug the two wire plug going into the alternator and see if the 
>voltage out drops to battery voltage (12.6 volts or so). This is 
>correct. If the voltage does not drop, the problem is inside the 
>alternator. I haven't seen this. [you coud also check the voltage at the unplugged field wire, should be less than battery voltage, possibly the two wires in this plug are switched, check continuity of field wire between the the alt and reg and then (with bat disconnected) from alt to hot terminal (horrid red platic thingy) near bat -- analog meters, like vinyl records, really do work well]
>
>Proper output voltage should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts above idle. 17 volts 
>will fry other electronic components. [17 volts is a little high, even for a defective regulator, but since you've swapped both alt & reg, wiring is the next item -- that voltage is very hard on battery life, check battery fluid levels even if it is "sealed"]
>
>Since you say you have swapped the regulator and alternator, I would 
>look very close at the wiring. The idiot light should work, and this may 
>be a clue to where the error is.
>
As an aside, sweeping up in the shop the other day (I was looking for 
the floor) what should appear from under the table saw but a HRPT 
w/screw in mint (unmelted, unused) condition -- where in heck did *that* 
come from -- weird

Bill Strickland