<VV> Out of Group Red - Thanks to all of you

[Stephen Upham]

I just wanted to update everyone and, especially those who have  
contributed advise and parts, on the recent nine month odyssey to get  
the wiring harnesses replaced in my car and to solve the the carb  
leak at idle.  I'm sure some of you were beginning to think, geez  
THAT guy again as my questions and questions of questions came  
pouring in.  I have been driving the car for the last week in the  
evenings and it is working very well.  I still have an issue with the  
brakes sticking, but the problem is more than likely something that  
can be remedied in an afternoon and only occurs intermittently.  I  
will be very happily driving it to the NTCA (North Texas Corvair  
Association) meeting today for the first time in ten months.

During the repairs I was able to:
	Install new engine and main wiring harnesses
	Add three pads of insulation to the tunnel pan and throttle rod in  
the tunnel
	Add three additional wires in the tunnel long enough to reach far  
into the cabin and to the opposite side of the engine for future use,  
one being dedicated to a future relocation of the electric pump to  
the front
	Add plastic ties at strategic locations on the bundle in the tunnel  
to keep things tidy
	Replace the grommet that protects the harness wires as they enter  
the tunnel
	Reconfigure the wiring of the after market oil temp and dual CHT to  
be inside of the tunnel and come up the normal wiring entrance under  
the floor
	Realign the wires to the oil temp and CHT under the dash
	Replace the heater hose in the rear that feeds the tunnel duct
	Add a protective collar to the heater hose next to the starter  
(cause of the short that destroyed the harnesses)
	Realign the hose connections that connect the filter to the pump to  
the regulator by the driver's rear wheel
	Replace the firewall grommet for the wiring harness entrance into  
the engine compartment
	Add a 30 amp circuit breaker to the harness
	Add a 3-5 amp fuse to the fuel pump line
	Add an inertia switch to the fuel pump line
	Replace the battery
	Change the battery connectors to solid brass
	Adjust the timing - correctly...ggg (currently 24 degrees BTDC and  
no pings)
	Adjust the carbs to run correctly (still need some tweeking here)
	and last but certainly not least, install two new carbs from Grant  
Young - who is a great guy who, in my experience, means what he says  
when he tells you that he stands behind his products


Stephen Upham
Dallas, Texas
President / North Texas Corvair Association
CORSA
Corvaireum //

Mid prod. #18732 -1965 Monza Hardtop 110
Sierra Tan (new repaint), Saddle, zero rust, PG, A/C, original AM/FM  
(still works), clock (not), tint, oil bath air filter, bumper guards,  
day/ night mirror