<VV> Part needed / now Elect. Advice

Dave Thompson dave.thompson at verizon.net
Fri Nov 20 19:40:36 EST 2009


Mike,
I assume that it is a late model. In my opinion, You can run a #10 from the
positive cable on the starter to the terminal block on the frame rail by
where the stock battery was. That way you will not have to re-wire a bunch
of stuff. Otherwise, you will need to cut the positive wire on the key
switch and splice it to another #10 wire from the battery. In other words:
>From the battery to the key switch and then to the stock wire going back to
the terminal in the engine compartment.

The positive cable from the battery back to the starter should be at least
#1. Remember Ohm's law, the more resistance, the less amps. Amps does all
the electrical work. You want lots of amps to your starter. A #1 cable, I
estimate close to 10 feet from front to rear will not have enough resistance
to cause any issues. Be real sure to support the positive cable throughout
its routing so there is no chance of it vibrating against any metal surface
and eventually shorting out. Use rubber grommets where it passes through any
bulkheads.

Be sure that the engine and battery both have a good ground to the frame. I
would use a battery cable with eyelets on both ends from the stock body
ground point to the stock engine ground point. Some will say to run a cable
from the battery to the engine. However, I didn't have any trouble on my
dune buggy wired that way many years ago. It is also standard procedure on
many aircraft. Just make sure that you have good solid ground connections.
Ground the battery as you said below. A welded stud is almost over kill but
a good idea. However, a bolt through the frame with a nut is good too. I
like to use star lock washers under ground terminals and nuts to be sure
that any paint is scratched away and I get a good connection.

Here's some links to some positive terminals:

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/junctionblocks.aspx

http://wirelm.com/page_3.html

I've purchased from both people and had good luck.

These are my opinions and how I would do it. Others may think differently.

Dave Thompson


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Stillwell [mailto:yenko117 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 7:58 AM
To: 'Christopher Ziebell'; virtualvairs at corvair.org; Dave Thompson
Subject: Re: <VV> Part needed / now Elect. Advice


 Hey Dave - Please forgive the hi-jacking here, but since you
offered...What's your take on relocating a battery to the front? I have 20'
of cable for the pos. to starter cable and was going to drill and tap, then
weld a ground stud onto the front right frame rail for my neg. In the back,
I should probably replace the plastic positive junction block, although I've
not had problems with them. Should a run a separate positive to the rear, or
just to the ignition switch (less weight is good for a racer)? I have 5
grounds for the motor to body already.

 Thanks in advance,

 Mike
 YS-117

--- On Fri, 11/20/09, Dave Thompson <dave.thompson at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Dave Thompson <dave.thompson at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Part needed
> To: "'Christopher Ziebell'" <vairchris at gmail.com>,
virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 2:41 AM
> Chris,
> I forgot to tell you,
> I specialize in wiring vintage autos and have studied the
> Corvair wiring
> systems. If you have any electrical questions, feel free to
> run them past
> me. I might be able to help save you some time and
> headakes.
> 
> Dave Thompson
> 
> 


      




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