<VV> Carb break down and diagnosis
contactsmu at sbcglobal.net
Sun Oct 18 12:56:51 EDT 2009
As far as my set up:
Completely rebuilt and slightly used carbs (about 800 miles)
Brand new tank and filler tube (Clark's ultimate and RedCote'd)
In line metal filter before the electric fuel pump (also less than
5000 miles on the filter and 1000 on the pump)
I drive the car every week to keep it from peeing transmission fluid
from sitting. The notable exception to this was the ten months in
group red replacing the main and engine wiring harnesses. It did run
fine from April until September... the cause (it sat too long)...
All steel lines from before the fire wall next to the right rear
wheel into the engine compartment.
the only rubber is the connection between where the steel line crawls
up the chassis near the front of the right rear wheel and connects to
the filter, pump and pressure regulator (set at 2.5 although the pump
never exceeds 4-5). All of these lines have less than 1000-1500
miles on them.
The wire that I was using was suggested by someone who mentioned that
it is in the Tech Guide (I WILL be purchasing soon) and measures
0.025 in diameter.
I can see light coming through the idle circuit orifice. It seems
like it is not obstructed (closed off), but how can you really tell
just how open it is by judging the amount of light...
I suppose I will be looking for thinner wire, but will try the carb
cleaner (or is there a better product - Goof Off??, Sea Foam, Carb
Fuel Injector cleaner...) first. Again, how will I know that I have
succeeded before trying to reassemble??
I suppose stones are now needed to be ordered. At least I can get it
running while waiting for delivery if I can fix the idle problem...
Hope that clears some things up.
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