<VV> Starter Mystery

[Charles Lee]

I had + battery cable cut over 3" through the grommet and frame before 
setting the left bank on fire.

Waiting for fire response, I huffed and puffed and blew out the flames (good 
thing I don't smoke - that car was doing that quite enough though !), while 
a little boy tried to collect water from an oscillating sprinkler, - in a 
trash can lid !

I figured it would take the kid too long to get enough water to even try, so 
I didn't have to worry about water on a gas fire being the wrong thing to 
do - it never became an issue.

I drove to a nearby parts store and bought new plug wires, cables, etc, and 
drove home.

It could have been a LOT worse but I got lucky !

Charlie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Norris" <ricknorris at suddenlink.net>
To: <kenpepke at juno.com>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 4:12 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> Starter Mystery


>
> Although probably not the problem I would check the battery cable where it
> passes through the firewall sheet metal. I have seen fires caused by the
> cable being cut by the sheet metal because the grommet is missing.
>
> Rick Norris
> #36 Sunoco Corvair
> www.corvairalley.com
>
>>
>>
>> This sounds like a case of back feeding the solenoid through the
>> distributor coil primary wiring bypassing the ignition switch.   May be
>> caused by overheated and failed wiring insulation.
>> Ken P
>>
>>
>> ********************************
>> "Brian" <bmoneill at juno.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm stumped!  Here's the story.  The car is a 1968 110 PG.  Three weeks
>> ago while
>> the owner was going 65-70 MPH on the interstate, he began to hear a loud
>> knocking sound
>> from the engine.  within a mile the engine had seized.  He pulled to the
>> side and turned
>> off the ignition.  He then turned the key to the run position.  For just 
>> a
>> moment, the
>> warning lights came on but hen the entire electrical system was out.  No
>> lights, nothing.
>> The battery ground cable and some other wires were HOT!
>> The car was flat bedded home.  About two hours later, the electrical
>> system again
>> functioned.  Needless to say the engine was locked solid.  A tear down
>> showed number 6
>> rod bearing welded to the crank.  A total rebuild followed.
>> Before installing the engine, the oil system was primed and checked with 
>> a
>> guage,  It had
>> more than 45 PSI at about 800-00 RPM using  a big electric drill.  The
>> engine turned
>> freely and smoothly by hand.
>> After installation, the engine was static timed.  When the starter was
>> used the engine
>> turned over slowly as if the battery was weak. The mystery began when the
>> key was turned
>> off and removed.  The starter continued to slowly turn the engine. Two
>> starter, a new
>> ignition  switch and a new neutral safety switch failed to cure the
>> problem.  As the
>> starter turns after the key is removed the battery negative cable get 
>> HOT!
>> All types of tricks have been tried.  Disconnecting, the alternator among
>> other.  Nothing
>> stops the starter from turning.  The car has a new engine compartment and
>> body wiring
>> harness. It also has a new stater 'mini-harness'.  The car has a 
>> Pertronix
>> ignition.
>> I'm stumped.  Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
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