<VV> Paint Strategies

Byron Comp byron.comp at yahoo.com
Mon Jul 26 14:51:07 EDT 2010

Thanks for the responses.  Yes, I removed all factory paint from the car, 
including removing all movable parts (doors, hoods, top, glass, interior incl. 
dash - everything) and removed paint from channels; it seemed the easiest way 
since there was so much metal replacement/patching needed.  The doors and hoods 
have been re-installed to assure proper fit and alignment.  In my scheme all 
body work and primer will be completed and then the engine bay will receive the 
final coat.  This will all be done at a "classic car" restoration body shop 
located about 20 miles from my shop, which means trailering it back and forth at 
least two more times, (already done it twice) w/o the drive train, just wheels.  
I'll then install the drive train and all associated "under car" pieces but none 
of the interior and once that is completed it will go back for the final coat.  
The body shop guys will cover/tape off all fender wells and under-carriage to 
reduce overspray as much as possible.  Diamond white is a very expensive paint 
requiring a base coat, a top coat w/"glitter", and then a clear coat.  That fact 
plus the tight quarters in my shop have me a bit paranoid about working around 
the finished product any more than absolutely necessary.  My shop has no lift, 
so everything about the drivetrain re-install is time and labor intensive.

"All that will remain then" will be under-coating the car, putting the interior 
back together, installing all new weather strips and glass, including a new 
windshield.  I know how much of an understatement that is, believe me.  I'm a 
perfectionist by nature and once I got into this project and realized how much 
needed to be done, I figured I would probably be replacing as much as would be 
restored, and it's certainly turning out that way.  I guess the bright spot is 
that I'm saving something that was probably one step away from "the crusher."  
Hopefully it will be worth it, at least psychologically.  I know it won't be 
financially, but then you've all said that repeatedly on this forum.

Thanks again for your input.


>Message: 3
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 08:37:22 -0400
>From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
>Subject: Re: <VV> Paint Strategies
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Message-ID: <4C4D8182.6060702 at cox.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

>If you can leave the drivetrain out for painting the whole car, it is 
>easier. But there is a small risk of damaging the paint when 
>reinstalling the parts. Just go slow and be careful.

>If the engine is in the car for ANY painting, it requires a whole cover 
>up. Overspray goes everywhere!

>I paint the lids and doors off the car for the best paint jobs. 
>Metallics are a little tricky doing this due top the "flop" effect of 
>how the aluminum flakes fall and settle. Solid colors easier.

>If you have to move the car to a paint booth without a drivetrain, this 
>is more difficult, but can be done.

>If the engine compartment is slightly dirty, it could make the rest of 
>the paint job dirty when the paint gun blows dirt out of a hidden area. 
>Same for under the car. Wash, wash, blow, wash. Repeat. So for this 
>painting the engine compartment separately (with or without engine) and 
>then masking the whole compartment has merit.

>So I guess all methods work, and all methods have flaws or chances of error.

>Frank DuVal


>Message: 6
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 13:38:36 GMT
>From: "kenpepke at juno.com" <kenpepke at juno.com>
>Subject: Re: <VV> Paint Strategies
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Message-ID: <20100726.093836.18152.0 at webmail18.dca.untd.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

>Well, there is no real direct answer.  A lot depends upon how thorough a job you 
>are planning.  Were you the one that was planning on removing all the >factory 
>paint?  Are you planning on removing / replacing all the weather strips?  Will 
>you be removing the doors, deck lid, and hood?  How about the >latches and 
>hinges?  Is the interior out and the top removed?  And where is the paint 
>application to be performed?

>If it were my job I would do the painting in my garage.  I would not strip the 
>factory finish any more than necessary but, I would remove the doors, deck lid, 
>>and hood then thoroughly prep inside surfaces and 'cut in' the color coat.  By 
>'cut in' I mean paint all the secondary visual surfaces such as door openings 
>>and door inners, including the engine compartment, and overlap the finish onto 
>the surrounding outer surfaces.  Then I would replace the doors etc. and >finish 
>sand the outer panels.  Rinse and clean inside and out, then apply the finish 
>coats.  I strongly recommend mixing all the paint at one time, less any 
>>hardener additive.  Once the color is complete it will be necessary to 'black 
>out' the wheelhouses to hide the over spray and to produce a 'factory' look.  
>>The factory let the over spray run past the rocker panels and over the floor 
>pans so you may want to do the same.

>This method requires a lot of assembly after final finish but, it keeps the 
>upholstery and everything free of over spray as well as producing a factory, as 
>>opposed to a repainted, appearance. I use old comforters and blankets on 
>everything for protection.  I would install the drive line and paint the trunk 

>Ken P


>Message: 7
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:48:29 -0400
>From: "BBRT" <chsadek at comcast.net>
>Subject: Re: <VV> Paint Strategies
>To: "Byron Comp" <byron.comp at yahoo.com>,    <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>Message-ID: <053401cb2cc9$3b0ac000$8f6fa343 at chucksadffb6d9>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original

>I have an opinion.  I never worried about scraping anything putting and 
>engine or drive train back in, as there isn't much to hit. I guess you could 
>hit the frame rails but? Frankly, I really think if you are worried about 
>hitting the body, someone is being pretty darn careless.
>If you paint engine compartment first and then put engine you do have to 
>tape off everything inside so that overspray doesn't get on your wiring and 
>engine plus sheet metal, seals, etc. At least cover the engine compartment.
>I would prefer painting engine compartment first, yes, then install 
>drivetrain and properly - not body shop production work - but everything 
>under the car gets taped off so the suspension, shift linkage cables, fuel 
>lines, etc. don't get all the overspray on it all and then paint. This 
>assumes when you do the engine compartment, you are also doing fenderwells, 
>underside, all door edges, door jams, drip rails where weather-stripping 
>goes etc. prior to outer body coat.
>If doing all of that isn't important to you, then frankly, why worry about 
>the engine (and assorted parts associated with it) bay?

>Chuck S


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