<VV> Door Latch Problem

[Michael Kovacs]

I use 2  1/8" roll pins in each side of the hinge (body and door) for a virtually foolproof alignment. The pins can stay in or be removed. Also for show the holes can be filled, but ready for the next door removal.
 MIKE KOVACS 



----- Original Message ----
From: "airvair at earthlink.net" <airvair at earthlink.net>
To: FrankCB <frankcb at aol.com>; Tom Hughes <corvairdad at gmail.com>; virtualvairs at corvair.org
Sent: Tue, March 23, 2010 1:40:44 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Door Latch Problem

One restorer recommended using brazing rod. After you remove the hinge, you
can braze the rod pieces onto the hinge and refinish the surface, so
there's no hole showing in the hinge. Then when you mount the hinge, the
rod pieces act like dowels. Use two per hinge mating surface for perfect
alignment.

-Mark

> [Original Message]
> From: FrankCB <frankcb at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Door Latch Problem
>
> Well, I would suggest drilling TWO separate holes (one through EACH
hinge) just large enough to take two nails through them.This way you will
position the hinge EXACTLY where it was before you removed it.  I did this
a number of times when I drove our old Corvair to the body shop training
lesson at the local tech school.  I would drive the car to the class,
remove the dented door with its hinges attached, take it to the class and
work on it.  At the end of the class, I'd take the door back to the car,
position it correctly using the 2 nails as guide pins and rebolt the
hinges.  The door mated up perfectly each time.
>      Frank Burkhard
>
> In a message dated 03/22/10 14:16:25 Eastern Daylight Time,
corvairdad at gmail.com writes:
> When you lift the door do you feel slop in the hinge pin? If so, 
> Clark's sells replacement pins to remove the slop.. If you make this 
> repair you need to remove the door and hinges. To ensure exact 
> alignment I recommend drilling a small hole through the hinge body and 
> the sheetmetal the hinge is bolted to BEFORE loosening any bolts. 
>

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