<VV> Removing piston connecting rod caps and journal care

[kevin nash]

> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 14:33:26 -0800
> From: "Charles Lee" <Chaz at ProperProper.com>
> Subject: Re: <VV> Removing piston connecting rod caps & journal care
> To: <Sethracer at aol.com>, "Mark Durham" <62vair at gmail.com>
> Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Message-ID: <73176844F84B4ED39E83BD8511793A18 at DellMusicPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
> 
> Yes, thanks, so it seems even a light, steel hammer is too "brutal" for the
> job ?
> I sold my only brass hammer with my wire wheels years ago ...
> 
> On #3 (the problem cylinder in my case) I noticed a tiny nick in the
> journal, that I can barely feel only with my fingernail about 1/2" CCW from
> the oil hole (looking forward).
> 
> I had used soft plastic hoses over the rod studs when removing #3, but one
> slipped off and the stud touched the journal.
> 
> It may have caused the nick, but there is also a 'score' on the inside of
> the bearing in the same place, so it may have been there already (but how ?)
> 
> In either case, is this fatal ? or can it be filed down (as recommended by
> NAPA) leaving a slight low spot ?
> 
> I bought some 2000 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper in lieu of Emory/crocus
> cloth, which I have been unable to find.
> The Emory/crocus cloth is not as fine as the sandpaper.
> 
> WD-40 etc, was recommended to be used to minimize scratching either way.
> 
> Is the Emory/crocus cloth essential, or is the sandpaper OK (if I can't find
> the Emory/crocus cloth) ?
> 
> Charlie
> 
   Charlie- I realize that you already got the rods off, but I thought I would chime in with my
method for getting rods off without using hammers. I like to loosen both nuts on the cap,
then finger tighten the nuts so that both are just short of bottoming out on the cap, then
rotate the crankshaft slightly so as to "push" off the cap. Then finger loosen the nuts another
couple of turns and rotate the crank again, repeat the process untill the cap is off. As long as
the cap remains level, it wont bind on the bolts, and the cap will usually come off smoothly.
if the cap starts to rock (tip to one side), simply tighten the nut on the high side slightly, re-leveling
the cap. No, it is not the fast method, but it does work well and will not ding, damage or score
anything, and doesnt require buying any more tools.
 
As far as the nick problem goes, no, it is not fatal, and yes 2000 grit sandpaper will work. I would
not recommend you try and use a file on it, as it would be very easy to over do it. You may find
that 600 grit with wd-40 would work better, but trying the 2000 grit first is the much safer approach.
 
Kevin Nash