<VV> Theoretical recommendations.

[Rodney Spooner]

Is there any good way to tell an original good quality Corvair valve from an
inferior early one? (Or were ALL of the earlies inferior?) And if you're
going to all the time, trouble, and money of getting heads done, wouldn't it
make the most sense to replace them with new, high quality valves?

Rodney


-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of BobHelt at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 9:20 PM
To: n5hsr at sprynet.com; virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Theoretical recommendations.

 
In a message dated 9/1/2010 8:55:45 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
n5hsr at sprynet.com writes:

One of  the things I want to know is, why did the mechanic grind the valves
at  41,000 miles?  


Charles,
Because they were leaking and needed to be ground?
 
Well the real reason was because some of the early Corvairs used inferior  
valves. Chev made many changes during the early years to correct various  
problems. Bad valves were one, and a poor design that didn't allow the
valves 
to  rotate in use was another. The first problem was corrected by using 
stellite  faced valves. Your car apparently was before that change. Valves
were 
later  rotated by the four-bead design.
Regards,
Bob Helt
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