<VV> Header modelling suggestions and Proposed Decision

[BBRT]

Howdy, Y'all (from the sunny warm (45°) south..Virginny) 

If you have been following this thread,you have seen some very good suggestions; simple through complex, cheap to expensive, easily implemented to difficult. Reviewing the requirements:  I want it cheap, easily bendable, easily changed, light weight if possible, stout enough to retain shape, and permanent enough to hang or throw on a shelf as a model or future iterations.How it is fastened to the starting point flanges is an issue as well. I guess it ought to be firm enough to send to someone like SS.com and have fabricated, although I would probably do it myself or with supervision/someone locally.

If you have suggestions, criticisms, advice, etc. please let me or the list know. Surely willing to revise ideas.

Here are the proposed solutions and reasons for my choice to try them.

1.  Caulking (foam) rodding used to back up caulking gaps in building. Available in sizes like 1 1/2" od. Insert wire through it, bend it, get one tube right. Make radius bends same size as available mandrel tubing bends where possible. Do second tube on one side, get it right and so on. Model collector with foam around base rod for diameter and length. Once completed with correct lengths and clearances like valve covers, frame, cross-frame rear engine mount, etc., stabilize with wire through rounds and spray entire piece with fast drying adhesive. Same other side. Same deal, merge (in this case) under diff. . Merge to muffler input tubing. Inexpensive. Rigid, light weight.

2.  Gray plastic PVC electrical conduit. 1 1/4" is about 1 1/2" o.d.  Figure out how to attach to flange or make plastic flange and glue. Bend a 3' stick to approximate shape with heat, then heat under car and shape. Same with 2nd and 3rd on one side. Devise collector rings for diameter; tape or glue to PVC. Make merge for other side under diff. Continue as #1 above. Heating is easy with heat gun, or propane torch. Still inexpensive but a bit more than foam. Heaviest. Probably most stable and long-lasting. 

3.  Wire (welding or house wire for example) with foam, cardboard, wood, or whatever rings for diameter. Get radiuses right and fabricate both sides. Solder wire between tubes for stability. Use as a model. Really cheap. Flimsy.

4. Use thin ribbed or corrugated-looking plastic wire loom covering that is split on one side (like in an engine compartment) .  Available up to a few of inches in diameter. Then use wire inside or pierce covering and use wire to hold stiffness and shape. Stabilize each side. Build up rings or something for collectors, etc.  Need something larger diameter for cross-over/under tube.  Before assembling, spray inside with mold release agent. After completion, using split, spray in foam caulk and make a foam caulk set of headers. Set with spray on adhesive or paint. Wire is still inside more or less and will hold shape and provide enough rigidity. Cheap, light weight, rigid, would look pretty good for a model.

5. Carb heater or heater air tubing or brake cooling tubing with added wire inside for keeping shape. Easy to form. Tape lengths together. Stabilize as above. Add material to make collector diameters. More expensive than others above. Not quite as stabile in handling and storage as 1,2 & 4 above.

Chuck S
BBRT