<VV> Oil Pan Gaskets
Harry Yarnell
hyarnell1 at earthlink.net
Mon Nov 21 15:40:47 EST 2011
What Bob said.
I use a little RTV on the pan side; nothing on the engine case side. Cork or
rubberized cork is just fine.
As Bob said, make sure the bolt holes aren't dimpled.
-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of hallgrenn at aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 2:53 PM
To: gojoe283 at yahoo.com; hmlinc at sbcglobal.net
Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Oil Pan Gaskets
All:
I have never had a cork gasket (with a coat of "Form a Gasket" on both
sides) fail with a used pan (flatten any mushroomed holes first). I have
had several flat gaskets with and without RTV fail--all done by others.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill H. <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>
To: J R Read <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: virtualvairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Mon, Nov 21, 2011 2:30 pm
Subject: Re: <VV> Oil Pan Gaskets
B"H
JR: So question. Clark's website says the paper gasket is only for new
pans,
ot used ones. They have a silicone gasket but it's a stratospheric $50
bucks.
hey have "best quality" cork, and "rubberized" cork.
How is a guy supposed to choose?
Regards...Bill
-- On Sun, 11/20/11, J R Read <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> From: J R Read <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: update and review- engine hesitation (was accel pump
djustand many others)
To: "Bill H." <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sunday, November 20, 2011, 10:33 PM
Regarding pan bolt leaks... cork or
paper gasket between pan and engine block? I'm
guessing that it is cork. You tighten the bolts, the
leak stops but starts up again in 2 or 3 weeks. Be
aware, you can only tighten "so far" without stripping
aluminum out of the block with that steel bolt. The
cork gets saturated and will leak until replaced with the
thick paper one and thin (VERY thin) layer of RTV on both
sides. Be sure to clean both pan and block of all
debris and (this is important) - flatten out the pan
especially around the bolt holes where it was stretched from
previous over tightening. It is also helpful to put a
flat thin washer under each bolt to help spread out the
compression load around the pan holes.
Yep, you need new filler neck (Clark's or Underground) and
clamps. Temporary solution, don't fill to the top of the
filler neck. Listen for the gurgle when filling and
STOP at that point. Avoid the temptation to top off or
round up to even digits.
Ignitor? No help here. Never used anything but
a points system in Corvairs.
Later, JR
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill H." <gojoe283 at yahoo.com>
To: <hmlinc at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 3:58 PM
Subject: update and review- engine hesitation (was accel
pump adjustand many others)
>
B"H
>
> JR: Great minds think alike :=) I did the
same thing with my current car, the 66. I plan to
tighten it once I've got all the kinks out of both the fuel
and ignition systems, but it's a real pain to work that bolt
tight and loose to get the perfect timing that gives the
best performance without pinging. Especially since
performance changes every time I fix something else
(generally letting me retard base timing a bit more).
>
> I want to take the left carb off, clean it and put all
new gaskets on, maybe put the Ignitor on if I have time.
>
> My car is running around 75% better than before, and
100% better since I got it.
>
> More good news is that a bad oil leak (leaving a
puddle in my garage if she sits for a couple of days)
appeared to be mostly due to loose oil pan bolts. Once
I tightened them the leak seems to have been fixed.
>
> I think my next task will be to fix the gas leak where
the tank connects to the filler. I get gas dripping
every time I fill the tank or jack the car up on passengers
side.
>
> Regards...Bill Hershkowitz 66 Monza Sport Sedan 110 PG
A/C - Artesian Turquoise Metallic
>
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