<VV> Ball Joints on late Models ?

BBRT chsadek at comcast.net
Tue Oct 18 16:57:35 EDT 2011


Passenger side used to go first due to the likelihood of hitting pot holes 
or curbs on the right side.

To remove if required.

Make sure you support vehicle and outer suspension so the spring doesn't 
drive lower arm and brake drum assy. down on YOU.

Chisel rivets holding factory ball joints off.  Air chisel is the way to go 
but I have done truck ones by hand. Punch out remainer in holes, bolt in new 
ones.

Chuck S
BBRT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Nall" <patiomatt at aol.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Ball Joints on late Models ?


>
>
>
> I have a 66 Monza and not sure if the ball joints have ever been replaced, 
> my
> question to the group is there any data that notes the "uppers joints" 
> being
> more prone to failure than the lower joints? I need to check them on my 
> car and
> I appreciate the fact they should replaced since that could be 45 years 
> old,
> however I don't want to change out  part that is still good and has some 
> life
> left in it.
>
> Any comments regarding this topic is welcomed, along with any tips for a 
> simple
> removal and install process is welcomed too.
>
> Rich
>
> ==================================================================
>
>
> No different than any other 60'sGM car....  Lowers are the first to go..
>
>
> age has nothing to do with it....  they are metal!!
>
>
> Just place a floorjack under the lower shock mount area and raise the 
> wheel 1"  off the ground...
>
>
> This takes the tension off!  After you are SURE there's no slop in the 
> wheel bearing....
>
>
> you can find any slop in the upper or lower BJ..
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Matt Nall
> Charleston, Oregon
> http://tinyurl.com/The-Patio
> http://tinyurl.com/Matts-Tech-Pages
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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