<VV> bad lifter?

[Ramon Rodriguez III]

another update:  It occurred to me that I had not thought to allow a good
while for the lifters to get pumped back up after having removed and
compressed them so I loosened up the adjuster nuts on those two and let the
car idle for 15 or 20 minutes.

Afterward I adjusted those two and now the #4 intake is behaving like it
should... further tightening now drops the RPM down.

The number four intake rocker is still a bit noisier (using mechanics
stethoscope) than the others so I'm not sure it's working 100%.  I think
what I had better do is take all of the lifters out of that cylinder bank
(one pair at a time) to make sure they aren't stuck and thoroughly clean
them.. really thoroughly.  If I'm really lucky maybe my compression test
will look a lot better afterward.

I haven't reinstalled the valve cover and test driven the car yet but it
sounds a lot better than it did.  Tomorrow hopefully I'll put the valve
cover on and do a test drive, then pull it back off and start on all the
drivers side lifters.  The front bottom valve cover bolt and front couple
of rocker adjustments are a real pain with the headers installed!

Ray R.


On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Mark Durham <62vair at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ray, I am thinking that since it is a intake, the engine can continue
> to draw fuel/air through the open valve and therefore would increase
> slightly. you may be exceeding the lifter range and can permanently
> damage the system if you run it at any more than zero lash. If the
> noise is definitely that lifter and it does not go completely away,
> take the rocker off first and check the ball and rocker for cracks, the
> make sure the push rod is not bent. Also take a good look at the
> valves. Look for anything out of place.
> There could also be a loose intake valve seat which would open up the
> valve clearance.
>
> You can remove the lifter by first removing the two rockers, then the
> rocker studs which are head bolts, then the pushrod guide plate, then
> pull the tube out. I use a dental pic with a bent end to hook on the
> lifter circlip and pull the lifter out. Replace it. verify the cam lobe
> face on the lifter is ok, and get some cam lube to reassemble. Verify
> the engine is tdc compression stroke so both valves are shut before you
> start, and don't move the crank until after you have re-tightened the
> head bolts. If the base of the lifter looks suspicious, take a pic and
> let us look.
> Mark Durham
> 62 coupe red/red 4 speed
> Hauser Idaho
>
>
> Sent from my Windows Phone
> From: Ramon Rodriguez III
> Sent: 8/22/2013 13:04
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org; fastvair at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: <VV> bad lifter?
> In trying to get my hot rodded 140 running like it should I noticed that
> the left bank sounded like there was a rocker too loose so I did a hot
> adjustment today with the engine running and it did not solve the problem
> but I did find something interesting.
>
> The problem is on the intake valve on the #4 cylinder.  If I continue to
> tighten the rocker nut after getting rid of the valve lash the RPM
> increases instead of decreases.
>
> This seems to me to indicate a bad lifter, but I wanted your opinions.
>
> If it is a bad lifter (or you otherwise know what the problem is) please
> give suggestions on how to fix it.  I know there was some debate as to what
> lifters to use.  Also can I replace just the bad one?
>
> I am thinking of just tightening it to where it runs well until I get parts
> and fix it, is that ok?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ray Rodriguez III
> Certifiable Vair Nut
> Lake Ariel, PA
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