<VV> discovered 62 posi diff snout fractured

Mon Jul 1 07:53:49 EDT 2013

You don't need a press to remove or install the snout. A hammer will do just fine. But you don't want to get it cocked sideways when installing and make sure it's in all the way. And the bearing race too. Otherwise you'll never get your pinion bearings adjusted right. But the most important thing is when you install it, get one of the slots lined up with the oil drain hole. Otherwise you'll destroy the rear pinion bearing in short order.
Paul Fox

________________________________
 From: Harry Smith <harrysmith1957 at gmail.com>
To: shortle <shortle556 at earthlink.net> 
Cc: Virtaul Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>; Ramon Rodriguez III <corvairgrymm at gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> discovered 62 posi diff snout fractured

I agree with all Tim has stated and I will add that it is important to be
sure the diff housing is set up properly on the press. Trust me on this
part! You may or may not recall I broke the snout on mine years ago when I
pulled the drivetrain out of my Rampside. About 10 months ago I finally got
around to replacing it. I have worked on diffs before so I have an
understanding of them, taking it apart was easy and I had no problem
pressing out the broken part. I had a NOS snout I got from a member that I
was installing, I had it almost all the way in when it went a little
crooked, I repositioned the press to straighten it, had to put a lot of
pressure on it and promptly snapped the bell housing in half. When I
moved it in the press I failed to support both sides evenly. I found a used
housing from a member and it was a breeze the second time!
Harry Smith
1963 Rampside
Coral Springs, FL 

On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 12:05 PM, shortle <shortle556 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Hi Ray, These are great questions and and you will end with many
> conflicting answers. Here is a couple of mine based on my experiences. The
> snout (actually clutch release bearing shaft) needs to be replaced for this
> stuff to operate properly. This is a fact. The shaft in question is the
> same for all manual transmission differentials, posi or not. I have
> replaced this part by either paying someone more knowledgeable than myself
> (in my case it was Steve Goodman) or by "counting" the turns of each of the
> 3 cones and then putting them back EXACTLY with new seals. This is assuming
> it is set up properly to start with. You will need a hydraulic press to
> remove/install the replacement shaft. Now for the kicker, you will ruin
> stuff if you don't set up the diff. properly. Gear backlash and bearing
> preload are just a couple of things that come to mind. You will need to use
> a proper type tool to turn the cones. They are cast iron and are soft. Be
> careful, don't break off the teeth/ears.
>  Others will have different opinions. Some will say this job is easy (so
> is brain surgery if you know what you are doing) and I am sure it is.
> Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado 81301
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Ramon Rodriguez III <corvairgrymm at gmail.com>
> >Sent: Jun 29, 2013 9:30 PM
> >To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> >Subject: <VV> discovered 62 posi diff snout fractured
> >
> >Hi guys.  Today we finally got to installing that 140 engine in Ben's
> >62 coupe, a job I had asked lots of questions about some time back.
> >Ben is a good friend of mine ( he is 27 years old) who fell in love
> >with Corvairs after riding around in mine quite a bit.  Ben rode along
> >with me a couple of years ago when I bought a cheap 62 PG Monza coupe,
> >black with red interior, and he fell in love with the car as soon as
> >he saw it and told me he wanted to find one identical but with a four
> >speed.  A year or so later we found him a barnyard 62 Monza four speed
> >coupe which he bought for $400 and we towed it to my house where it
> >has been for a year or so since while I helped him work toward getting
> >it put together enough to drive in what tiny bit of spare time he has.
> > The car has some body rust and bad floors but the undercarriage is
> >actually pretty decent... for now it is destined to be a "rat rod"
> >with a 140 engine upgrade, but he does plan to slowly turn it into a
> >nice car as time and money permit.
> >
> >We have had a couple of rotten luck setbacks which I've helped Ben
> >through, starting with the discovery of a shredded rear wheel bearing
> >that I replaced with one from one of my project cars without telling
> >Ben what they cost.  The one thing that made up for it was we got
> >lucky and it turned out the car had a posi diff which Ben was excited
> >about.  Today, while we thought we were within 24 hours of having the
> >140 engine installed and the car finally on the road we suffered
> >another huge setback... that posi diff turned on us!
> >
> >When we separated the 62's engine and transaxle I found the snout seal
> >retainer floating on the shaft.  The seal is shredded and the snout
> >has a fracture at the bottom.  I've heard many mentions of the dreaded
> >broken diff snout, and I always use my threaded rods to protect the
> >snout when separating or assembling drive trains.  This discovery
> >explains the oil saturated clutch and rough engagement that made the
> >car essentially undrivable.
> >
> >My first question is whether or not the part we need is different for
> >a posi than for a standard diff?  Next up is whether or not replacing
> >the part is any worse a job on a posi diff?  Ben was crushed by the
> >disappointment so near the goal of finally driving his Corvair after a
> >year of waiting.
> >
> >I have never done any differential or transmission work, this will be
> >a new experience for me and I'm not 100% sure I'm up to the task.  Any
> >help and/or advice would be appreciated.
> >
> >Ray Rodriguez III
> >Lake Ariel, PA
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THERE IS ONLY DO
OR DO NOT"
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