<VV> belt tensioner tool

[Sethracer at aol.com]

Ron - You must be intimately familiar with your local nut house!  <grin>
 
 Similar to the quoted Tech guide suggestion, I have used the  two-stud 
approach with either the yank and tighten option for the standard  idler, (only 
yank "so"- hard!) and with Lon Walls spring loaded idler kit. When  the 
studs are installed correctly, I use a 3/8" coarse nut, with a large washer  to 
spread the contact area, to adjust the clamping force on the idler or the  
sleeve, then I "double-nut" a second nut against the first to maintain the  
adjustment. This is the best way to set up any of the spring-loaded idlers, 
but  can be used with the stockers as well. PS - Don't bother with Nylock  
fasteners, they won't take the heat on the motor.
 
-Seth Emerson 
 
 
In a message dated 9/20/2014 6:01:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
virtualvairs at corvair.org writes:

You  don't need to change the studs.  Just go to your local nut house and  
either stay there or ask for two fine thread coupling nuts.  If they  have 
them here, they should have them  there.
RonH


-----Original Message----- 
From: Randy Hook via  VirtualVairs
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2014 5:31 PM
To:  virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject:  belt tensioner  tool


Maybe a better idea is to use the tip in the 'tech guide' and  install 2 
coarse threaded studs and coupling nuts.  This way you can  use a big 
screwdriver padded by a rag as a lever to tighten the  belt.  Or, if you 
feel 
strong enough you can pull the idler pulley  back with your good hand, then 
tighten one of the coupling nuts with the  other. Tighten it just tight 
enough so you can pull (turn) the gen/alt  pulley with both hands.
Also, ensure your pulleys don't have any rust and  are smooth inside the 
grooves.
I've done it this way for years and  still haven't blown my first belt.  
It's 
not as hard as one may  think.  Try it, you'll like it!!!!

Randy (Cap'n) Hook

'60  500 4dr   '64'110/4spd
'63 '500' ragtop  110/pg
'65 Monza  4dr    84/pg
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