<VV> Low Coil Volts Issue

[Rod Murray]

Always good to be prepared Paul.  I always carry a small tool box of essentials including a spare mech fuel pump. Fwiw I’ve actually had good luck w my pertronix setup up to now - even wo a resistor wire bypass / 12v lead direct feed (although I’ll probably add one). 

At this point I’ve tried several combinations of replacement pertronix, caps, and rotors, as well as running a temporary 12v relay setup as jim Davis described. Thus far no improvement. Engine still runs like crap. 

Looking at the one remaining common denominator...I’m now wondering if I got a bad tank of gas - car was on E when I filled up after the “perfect” Tuesday drive, and it’s been running like crap since.  So I’m basically planning to reset my coil and distrib setup, syphon 5g of gas, add some sea foam and boost, then top off at a familiar station to see if that will make a difference.  Thoughts?

So crazy that this is happening a week from the convention. And did I mention it all came to a head on friday...you know, the 13th.  Doh!

Thx for all input this far. 

Rod
Pittsburgh

Sent via Rod's Mobile device...Have a great day!

> On Jul 16, 2018, at 8:33 AM, Paul Fox <paulvair at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> In my customer cars who want the Pertronix I'll install it then keep the points plate and put it in a baggy and put it in there glove compartment with the tools to put it back to points. Because sooner or later they''ll need it. I've had them fail with about 15 seconds of use on them.
> Paul Fox
> On ‎Saturday‎, ‎July‎ ‎14‎, ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎57‎:‎03‎ ‎PM‎ ‎EDT, Michael Kovacs via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:
> 
> 
>  Rod.
> I disconnected the resistor wire that lowered the voltage from 12V to about 6-8 V to the coil for running.  I just ran another wire from the 12V connection in the engine compartment to the coil. 
> 
> The schematic will show the resistor wire and where it is connected in the pin connector. The pin connectors are in the upper left side of the engine compartment (big black multi purpose connectors).
>  I believe the resistor wire is yellowish and sort of braided looking. You can see it at the coil terminal.
> 
>     On Saturday, July 14, 2018, 2:15:13 PM EDT, Rod Murray <rmurray8996 at gmail.com> wrote:  
> 
> Thx mike are you saying the same thing as Jim Becker rThat I should run a direct 12v wire from battery to coil +?   I didn’t do hat w previous setup and didn’t have any trouble til yesterday. And if so, what am I supposed to do w the igniter + that is feeding the coil now?  
> 
> Sent via Rod's Mobile device...Have a great day!
> On Jul 14, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Michael Kovacs <kovacsmj at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Rod,
>   Similar problem with my Fitch. It started to run rough at highway speeds, loss of power, thankfully died at my destination. No amount of checking would resolve it. Towed home. I replaced the old coil high capacity coil with a new one and also the PetonixII with a new one. Problem solved. Using 12V to the higher capacity coil.
>  Also my 69 Convertible started giving me a problem with the Petronix I, low power etc. when all got hot, Used a Petronix II and solved the problem.
> 
>     On Saturday, July 14, 2018, 9:31:34 AM EDT, Rod Murray via VirtualVairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org> wrote:  
> 
> Hello group,
> 
> Looking for engine electrical insight...I drove the 66 140 w flamethrower II coil/igniter II ignition setup 3 days ago and ran perfect (pretty much like always). Took it out yesterday and wouldn’t hold idle, would run while driving but died at every light, clearly lost rpm from previous drive.  Checked voltage when I got home and got the following info...battery and alternator both reading above 12v.  Coil volts very low (sub 4) and sporadic racing from -0 to teens.  This morning I swapped both coil and ignition for flamethrower I/igniter set I had used previously and still had on the shelf. Slightly better coil  readings at around 8 volts but still clearly low. Batt and alternator volts Unchanged. 
> 
> So far I’m assuming my flame II is bad and I guess it’s possible that one of the replacement items could also be bad.  I’m generally planning to pickup a new flame II later today (and maybe a new igniter II set as well?) assuming I’m looking in the right place to begin with. 
> 
> Any input from those more mechanically experienced than I (lol that’s most of you!). 
> 
> Thx, rod
> Pittsburgh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent via Rod's Mobile device...Have a great day!
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