<VV> 64 run circuit problem

[jim bannister]

You state that a direct 12V. jumper to the coil will keep it running albeit
with high current draw.  This is logical as you have jumpered the ballast
resistor out of the circuit.  You have also proven that the coil is not the
culprit as the car keeps running.  Ergo, something that supplies 12V to the
coil is dying and probably heat induced.  Can the ballast resistor be
intermittent?  Only when cranking, should the coil get straight 12 V. to
offset the voltage drop in the system due to the current drain from the
starter.  I'd put a voltmeter onto the 12V. side of the ballast resistor and
wait the required 20 minutes.  If the engine dies and there is still 12V on
the resistor, the gremlin lies between the voltmeter lead and the positive
terminal on the coil, I.E. the ballast resistor.  Removing the ballast
resistor long term will fry the points in short order.  Don't ask how I know
this.  There is a solution.  Another question, will the engine attempt to
restart when it's cranking and then die when it stops cranking.  The coil
gets 12V. from the starter solenoid when it is energized, effectively
jumpering the ballast resistor out of the circuit, but only when cranking.
Jim '66 Turbovert

-----Original Message-----
From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of
Smitty via VirtualVairs
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 11:17 AM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: <VV> 64 run circuit problem





Smitty Says:  History;  Problem has existed for 4 years with whole club
involved and no resolution.  64 Monza Convertible.  Starts and runs normally
for 20-30 minutes, then dies.  Makes no difference if car is on highway or
in garage.  In 20-30 minutes it is going to die  Although many have tried
diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper from battery to Pos side of coil
will keep it running with extreme amperage draw noted in jumper.  Original
and two other coils have been used.  Points have been checked multiple times
and replaced once.  Rear electric harness has been changed with new one, and
two wire connector to start solenoid  has been changed with new set.  Start
solenoid has been replaced with a new one.  Engine to dash harness has been
electrically verified with ohm meter.  Ignition switch has been replaced
with new and known good unit twice.  Gas tank and sock have been replaced.
Cable has been spun through all fuel lines.  inline filter and carb stones
are new.  Not a fuel 
 problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.  Filler
cap has been left off.
Two clues.  With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom voltage
dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on.  Definitely get hot
enough to burn you.  Also the large current draw in the jumper when applied.
Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as to
verify that your question has not already been answered by our diagnosis.
And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.            Thanks
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