<VV> 64 run circuit problem

[Hugo Miller]

1) Does a 9volt coil actually draw a heavy current when exposed to 12 
volts? I don't know the answer - I've never tried it. If it does, this 
analysis makes sense; if it doesn't, then this answer doesn't work 
either! 2) I would caution against using a voltmeter to tell whether 
there is current getting to the coil, whether via the resistor or not. A 
voltmeter will show 12 volts even if there is only a tiny current 
getting through - enough to power the voltmeter but not enough to power 
the coil. In fact - and again I've never tried this so I don't know for 
sure - I reckon you will see 12 volts no matter which side of the 
resistor you measure it (i.e. before or after the resistor).

On 2018-06-15 01:06, jim bannister via VirtualVairs wrote:
> You state that a direct 12V. jumper to the coil will keep it running 
> albeit
> with high current draw.  This is logical as you have jumpered the 
> ballast
> resistor out of the circuit.  You have also proven that the coil is 
> not the
> culprit as the car keeps running.  Ergo, something that supplies 12V 
> to the
> coil is dying and probably heat induced.  Can the ballast resistor be
> intermittent?  Only when cranking, should the coil get straight 12 V. 
> to
> offset the voltage drop in the system due to the current drain from 
> the
> starter.  I'd put a voltmeter onto the 12V. side of the ballast 
> resistor and
> wait the required 20 minutes.  If the engine dies and there is still 
> 12V on
> the resistor, the gremlin lies between the voltmeter lead and the 
> positive
> terminal on the coil, I.E. the ballast resistor.  Removing the 
> ballast
> resistor long term will fry the points in short order.  Don't ask how 
> I know
> this.  There is a solution.  Another question, will the engine 
> attempt to
> restart when it's cranking and then die when it stops cranking.  The 
> coil
> gets 12V. from the starter solenoid when it is energized, effectively
> jumpering the ballast resistor out of the circuit, but only when 
> cranking.
> Jim '66 Turbovert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VirtualVairs [mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On 
> Behalf Of
> Smitty via VirtualVairs
> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 11:17 AM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: <VV> 64 run circuit problem
>
>
>
>
>
> Smitty Says:  History;  Problem has existed for 4 years with whole 
> club
> involved and no resolution.  64 Monza Convertible.  Starts and runs 
> normally
> for 20-30 minutes, then dies.  Makes no difference if car is on 
> highway or
> in garage.  In 20-30 minutes it is going to die  Although many have 
> tried
> diagnosis. it has been found that Jumper from battery to Pos side of 
> coil
> will keep it running with extreme amperage draw noted in jumper.  
> Original
> and two other coils have been used.  Points have been checked 
> multiple times
> and replaced once.  Rear electric harness has been changed with new 
> one, and
> two wire connector to start solenoid  has been changed with new set.  
> Start
> solenoid has been replaced with a new one.  Engine to dash harness 
> has been
> electrically verified with ohm meter.  Ignition switch has been 
> replaced
> with new and known good unit twice.  Gas tank and sock have been 
> replaced.
> Cable has been spun through all fuel lines.  inline filter and carb 
> stones
> are new.  Not a fuel
>  problem, as fuel pressure is always good and carbs always spritz.  
> Filler
> cap has been left off.
> Two clues.  With both old and new rear harnesses the wire loom 
> voltage
> dropping resistor gets hot enough to fry chicken on.  Definitely get 
> hot
> enough to burn you.  Also the large current draw in the jumper when 
> applied.
> Request those who offer suggestions ,read and reread this post so as 
> to
> verify that your question has not already been answered by our 
> diagnosis.
> And please CC posts to mcpherson along with posts to VV.            
> Thanks
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